Northern Thailand Winter Ride - Day 3 Thaton

Mongkiangdao redeemed itself by serving us a lovely western breakfast on its open terrace, with amazing views of the mountains. At a cold 15c, we were all rugged up and enjoying this most special winter morning. Mary and Kimi were chattering excitedly like school girls about everything, especially about the fabulous brekkie.

Indeed, all of us were like noisy children - eating, talking, posing and laughing. I was wondering what CW was doing, until he mentioned, ahem, the more defined calf muscles thanks to years of riding.

We took a group picture with 2 huge ceramic roosters, and Maggie the dog came along for the pic as well before tally ho-ing to Chiang Dao Cave. CW insisted on visiting the Caves. Not so much for the beauty of the caves but because the road leading in is absolutely breathtaking with tall trees, giving a hint of the Californian Redwoods. Riding along in the cold and mist, it was refreshing and it was heartwarming to see faithful Maggie running alongside us once more. I do hope she is well taken care of by the hotel (we gave them some money for Maggie).

Chiang Dao Caves is pretty and certainly worth a poke. The pond is filled with all sorts of colourful carp fish and its surroundings are very thoughtfully designed to give you a sense of tranquility. It is said that the caves go into the mountains 5km but we had no time to substantiate that as we had a long way to ride today.

Playing tourists was over and the hard work of tackling the long hard ride began. We cycled through breathtaking views of the mountain ranges and then the serious climbing began. The first one lasted 6-7km and it really showed who really trained and who said they trained.

More climbs and descends came and the trick was not to think about it too much but to just take it in stride, on a granny if needed. Here, the experienced cyclists were coaching the newer ones on the finer points of tackling "slopes". I admired Uncle Teo on his Titanium NWT for his patience in guiding Hong along the way.

It was also a test of our bikes. I was pleased that my Bike Friday could manage the climbs despite having only 2 chain rings. What surprised me more was how comfortable drop bars can be for touring when set up properly.

I was impressed particularly with Mary on her NWT and Kimi on her super zhnged Tikit. Both ladies were really flying and spinning their way up those hills. While waiting for the rest, they still had energy to fool around and that speaks a lot about their fitness.

With each climb, the promise of a downhill awaits and it was truly downhill galore when KC's speedo registered an unbelievable 117km/h!

One or two folks got leg cramps grinding up those hills but all of us made it for our lunch spot at Amphoe. It was a simple coffeeshop restaurant but Khao Pad (fried rice) and Coke never tasted so good. However, despite the cheerfulness, tiredness was written on all over our faces.

It was another long climb and this one was really serious. I got worried when I finished all my lollies and there was no sight to the top. But the light lunch did its bit to fuel us up.  This time the downhill was extremely rewarding and the fastest rider was Bro Mike as he had an unfair "natural" advantage. Drafting behind him was fun and he was like a mother hen with all of us chicks following obediently behind. All the pain was quickly forgotten as our adrenaline rush came in buckets as we charged down at high speeds, gravity assisted, like racers in the Tour De France.

The end of the mountain range came too soon and we were back on flat lands. Cycling along "normally" once more felt a bit boring. Fortunately, a cluster of small Thai cafes by the roadside bided us for lunch # 2 and it was well earned. Kimi remarked that she was starving and the kitchen worked overtime to get things cooking.

While the team was gorging on Pad Thai and other Thai goodies, CW's razor eye spotted one Song Theow (a truck taxi) and arrangements was made for us to be transported to Fang, then ride the 20+ km to Thaton. It was a good thing we did this as being back in the low lands, the temp was hot and the roads were dusty. The 12 bikes + riders all fitted in nicely in 2 vehicles, and Matt and Andre had fun sitting behind.

Although the team was told the drop off point was Fang, CW and I decided to change tact and got our drivers to proceed straight to Thaton. When we got off, we told everyone to saddle up and make tracks as we had 25km to ride to "Thaton" and it was already 5pm. With strict instructions to follow CW, they all mounted enthusiastically, some perhaps with reservations. How shocked they were when CW made a turn into a small road after 3 mins of cycling and ended up in the lobby of the beautiful riverside Apple Hotel. It was a pleasant surprise for the group and getting brand new rooms with balconies overlooking the Kok River was just the perfect way to end a tough ride.

The girls had it even better as they packed into a huge "Governor's Mansion" and were squealing in delight. Not quite squealing but Uncle Teo was grinning like a cheshire cat with his own little pad.

Dinner was pre-arranged 6 weeks prior thanks to the foresight of CW at the Sunshine Cafe. The owner, Khun Yanee, is truly an epitome of sunshine-ness, serving us with great warmth and friendliness.

She advised us how to order for maximum value and taste. Needless to say, it was a first class dining experience. Coming across such nice folks just enhances the travelling experience and we were touched.

True to form, we had dinner #2 at a pub/restaurant, attracted by its wonderful music from the 70s and 80s, of Bee Gees, Journey, America and the likes. Though it was more a coffee and drink hang out, Messrs Mike, Andre, Matt, Steven, Hong and a few others went in search for street food and came back with BBQ Squid and some other delectable nibbles. This was in addition to the Lanna Sausage platter we ordered! But disappointingly, no hot soya milk was found.

Eating, drinking and yakking about the day's ride among new and old friends at a cool 18c, this was as good as it gets. We walked back to Apple, crossing the Thaton bridge, feeling absolutely in top spirits. If ever there was a perfect day, this must have been it.

Pic credits: CW - 1,6,22,25,26,27,28   Roland - 3,5, 8,13,14,19,  Steven Tang - 4,11,15,16,17    KC - 18

Northern Thailand Winter Ride - Day 2 Chiang Dao

Good ole Maggie running tirelessly...

It was impressive that everyone was up bright and early at 0730, all ready to head off for breakfast #2 - Kao Tom or congee. Na Inn's complimentary breakfast was just toast and jam, with coffee, which is a nice enough starter. The 12 of us rode through the cool morning air in the thick Chiang Mai traffic and we reached the make shift stall in an easy 10 mins. Some of the team members went berserk when they saw blood pudding and they merrily tucked into it with piping hot congee and chinese donuts. CW and I watched in amusement as repeat orders came fast and furious. It was that good but we were not used to seeing so much food consumed before a longish 80+km ride before us. We stopped at 2 bowls!

A quick hop back to Na Inn to mount our panniers, and we skipped off in the highest spirits. Taking the back lanes, we were soon out in the country and on highway 107. I had a close shave when my skinny front 1.35 tire got caught in a metal drain cover but thank God I recovered quickly. Fatter tires are definitely more suitable for touring. The impressively wide road shoulder for cyclists on the highway made it very safe for 12 of us to cruise our way to Mae Malai, some 50km away.

Though the sun was out, humidity was low and at 26-28c, it was pleasant enough. The ride was flattish and the long bike train started thinning out with different riding speeds among the team. As the sweeper, I found myself needing to go to the front of the pack sometimes and then hang back. It was then that I really appreciated the agility and speed of my Pocket Sport.

Our lunch stop was the famous multi-colourful red, yellow, green corner restaurant that we usually frequent and for good reasons. They sell lovely rice and noodle dishes, along with some dim sum if you are early enough. But what makes this place great is its bike friendly. Plenty of safe and secured parking at the back of the eatery, and free ice top-up for our water bottles.

Half way through lunch, we were delighted to get a text message from Kimi who just landed at the airport and was on her way to Chiang Dao in a chartered taxi. Those who over-ate paid the ultimate price as the next 30km to Chiang Dao was no longer "flattish". The first serious climb began and many got winded. The climbs were not killers but on a bloated stomach, it just wasn't going to work.

It was thus with squealing delight that a silver Toyota pulled in front of us and out popped Kimi. We were glad to see her but even more glad that we could unload our heavy panniers into her taxi and could  ride unencumbered. Those who were far ahead missed this opportunity but I guess life has a way of ironing things out.

With hills accompany great views and I was not disappointed. We passed the Elephant Camp and rode along a beautiful stretch where the road hugged the river.  If ever there was a place to separate the men from the boys, hill climbs would probably be it. KC, our oldest and fastest rider, unleashed his huge twin pistons and disappeared in no time. I could only follow him but for a short while. It was great fun whizzing the downhills at his tail, carving those lovely bends.

Then, there were some who "preferred" to push up the hills which meant that re-group stops had to be more often and waits were longer. But, this was not a race and we had all the time in the world. It was also encouraging to see people improving their cycling techniques on the fly.

Poor Roland on a shiny maroon Birdy suffered a leaking rear tire and that dragged him down. It was a start of more dramas for him but everyone was impressed with his fortitude and determination.

Just 5km before Chiang Dao, we came across a scruffy stray dog who I named Maggie. She somehow took a liking for our pack and just ran along with us all the way to our hotel, Mongkiangdao. It was unfortunate that they stuffed up our booking and we were one room short. CW, Mike and I were relegated to the old quarters and experienced male bonding to the fullest. We were grateful for the wonderful give and take spirit of the team and that made for a really wonderful time together.

Male bonding - Pic borrowed fm CW

What charms in this resort is the spectacular sunsets of the mountain ranges. A quick shower and some coffee saw us ready for a sunset ride into town for dinner.

The restaurant we went to was absolutely thrilled to see 12 ravenous cyclists descend upon them. We ordered and drank lots as usual. There were at least 16 dishes and we left feeling very satiated.

That was until we chanced upon a lonely Soya Bean stall along the road back. No matter how filled we are, there always seems to be room for dessert. The pretty young lass was overwhelmed at our 2 dozen orders and we were even more overwhelmed at being charged a grand total of $5!

It had been a great day of riding and falling asleep was easy. For many, this was their first overseas day of touring and I was very glad to see the bright smiles amidst tired bodies and hanging laundry.

Northern Thailand Winter Ride - Day 1

Following the immeasurable fun and success of the July Mekong trip of the infamous 8, I felt rather inspired to co-lead another ride with my buddy Chris on Jan 10-15. This time for a 240km loop around Chiang Mai with a huge entourage of 12. Dec to Feb is Winter with cool 15c mornings and although day temps are around 28-30c, its not humid which makes for very comfortable riding.

It was almost carnival like when we checked in at  Changi Airport T2, meeting some for the first time. Many who signed up were newbies to touring and their enthusiasm were infectious. We have had preparation evenings on how to pack etc so all the bicycles were neatly boxed and check-in ready.

At the last min, Simon cancelled out but Roland seized the opportunity to join us, and got his air ticket booked just the day before! Talk about dropping everything to go at the eleventh hour, that's true commitment.

Arriving at Chiang Mai airport a tad before noon, it was nice to see everyone working as a team, and 2 taxis and one Songtheaw later, we were comfortably settled at Na Inn in the old quarters.

Na Inn's location is excellent, it has comfortable and spacious rooms, a huge storage to keep our bike boxes and most importantly is very bike-friendly. It was good to see the ever cheerful Ms Maew, the manager again.

We met Matt and Andrea, a zesty and friendly couple, who flew in a day earlier and had a 3 meal advantage on us. Or was it 4?

What was to be a simple lunch of Thai beef noodles, got extended to al fresco Vietnamese followed by coffee and cake at Wawee Cafe. If I didn't know better, this was going to be more an eating rather than cycling trip! Which later proved true when many put on weight on this trip rather than lose, fancy that.

However, there were some who were too excited to assemble their foldies and left immediately after lunch. Chris and I were among the last to put our bikes together and I appreciated the patience of the Na Inn staff. Imagine the mayhem and clutter of having 12 bikes assembled together!

When word got around that there was a bike shop just 3 min ride away, all of them except us ride leaders who were lazing in our aircon room, invaded the little shop. It was exciting to be shown the spoils of their hunt later where we gave fatherly approvals.

Our evening ride was around Chiang Mai to see the many beautiful temples and sights. There are over 300 temples here!

It was a challenge to chaperon such a big group and we felt like sheep dogs. I was amazed and grateful for the courtesy extended to us by the Thai drivers!

Dinner was Chinese fare at the famous Jia Tong Heng where we gouged and went through too many dishes. It was specifically Teochew cuisine as many Thai Chinese migrated from that province and was delectable. We even had Oh-ni, a traditional sweet yam dessert!

This was followed immediately by more eating and joint-stretching Thai massage at the glitzy night market, which fascinates with all sorts of entertainment. A most undeserving reward after riding a mere 8 urban km!

With all that calories consumed, we slept soundly ready to burn it all the next day on our 80km ride to Chiang Dao. Thank God for that!




Pic credits - TU v much indeed:  CW - 1,5,12,16,22   KC - 18,25   Steven T - 10,17,25   Roland - 21  Andre - 15