Sunday, August 21, 2016

FSTR Day 5 - Covering a quick 90 km for 60 cents! Baan Saphan. 130km.




                      
                     



Sue, expressing her thanks to the Chef! Pic KC

The Chef's cute baby! Pic KC


Pic KC



Pic KC

                     

                    

                       



I woke up early in time to enjoy the sunrise at the beach. The tide was out. Several fishing boats laid quietly on the sand like dead fish that got caught out of the tide. But it was still beautiful and in a way, life is like that. No matter how low our situation in life is, it can still be beautiful when we know God will bring the tide of hope in again.

Today was an easy morning as we only needed to ride 35km to Prachuap Khiri Khun where we plan to catch the 130pm train down south to Baan Saphan Beach. Time was running out for us so this was necessary and the route from PKK to BS was mostly inland along the highway, which would not be too fun to ride.

We took our time to leave Little Home and enjoyed mingling with a Thai family who was fascinated with our tour.


Pic KC

Looking for breakfast is always a challenge as in the countryside, very few eateries seem to open in the morning. As we rode we spotted some with promise but they were either close or had nothing much to offer. "Keep going! Something will come up!", I encouraged the group as we pedaled on with empty fuel tanks. Claudine was getting desperate and wanted to stop to get some fried bananas and it was then that I asked the Lord to lead us to somewhere nice for breakfast. And just like the miracle of turning water into wine, I was wishfully hoping for a nice Bacon and Egg breakfast.



As the road turned inland and we had to climb a long bypass, I could sense a low tide spirit coming. After all, how long can we go on reserves and we have been cycling for more than 30 mins already? Soon, the 4020 road led to Highway 4 and before us was civilization.

                               
Pic KC

On our right, I spotted an orange colour cafe which looked closed. I went to enquire while YC went around the corner to check out for other possibilities. Lo and behold, this cafe was run by a German guy married to a Thai and I asked if he could do Bacon and Eggs for us, and he said, "No problem!" I could not believe my ears and told everyone to come into this amazing cafe, Coffee by Ban Lek. What's more, a bicycle mural on the wall really made us feel at home and my heart burst into thanksgiving at another answered prayer!

                      



Everyone was really happy and enjoyed a satisfying breakfast and more! Orders were made for more toast and it came presented so artistically with delicious homemade strawberry jam and thick slaps of creamy butter.

                                              

We took our time here as it was such a warm and inviting place and we had time to spare, only 25km left and we had 3 hours. Cycling along the busy Highway 4 was no fun but it had to be done. Though there was a nice lane for bicycles, it was not the same as cycling on quiet country roads. We regrouped just before turning towards the coast again as YC led us off the Highway and into the smaller roads which we appreciated.



The quieter road we rode on was so deserted and KC suggested that we rode 8 abreast and it was great fun. The weather was kind with cloudy skies and it was amazing to do this safely!


pic KC

We soon arrived at Khan Kradal Train Station where we had a drink stop. The lady managing the store was also running a hair saloon and was busy fixing a customers hair. So it was DIY time for us to fix our drinks and we didn't mind it one bit.


Pic KC

The last 10km to PKK was absolutely beautiful as we hug the coastline once more. It was wonderful that I had a power-assisted ride from a motorcycle tuk tuk and the rider was only just a young teenager.

Pic KC
                           
As we entered the beach area of PKK, this was where it really got seriously breathtaking. With golden beaches and Karst hills, it was so special to be here and we stopped at the bridge to soak in this wonderful moment. 2 men were fishing from the bridge throwing their nets into the water and it was fascinating to see their skill.


Pic KC

Prachuap Khiri Khun is probably the prettiest coastal town on this coast and it was a real pity that we were not staying over night. So much beauty here and I like especially the long jetty and the natural sandy bays. I will certainly come back here and explore this place again.

Pic Ithaka Travel

George and YC went to the train station to check out our tickets to Baan Saphan while the rest of us hung around the jetty area enjoying some fruits. They returned with big grins on their face. It was an unbelievable 16B or 60 cents for the 90km ride albeit in 3rd class carriages. 


With 90 mins to spare, we had plenty of time for some lunch and we decided on a crowded eatery that served seafood noodles. That was so good especially washed down by fresh lemon juice. Once again, we were received with so much warmth and hospitality and such is the amazing kindness of the Thai people.

                    

PKK Train Station was a little bit bigger than the ones we saw and was very well maintained. Painting works were in progress. The ticket officer was a really nice and helpful guy that spoke good English and I took the opportunity to buy our overnight train tickets back from Chumphon to Butterworth as well. That was 970B or just under $40 for a sleeper and it was a pity we could not get the lower bunk. VT suggested we get another spare bunk just to store our foldies and that was a brilliant idea.

Meanwhile, everyone was busy packing the foldies into travelling bags and it is here that I really appreciate my Bike Friday Tikit's super fast 5 sec fold. Indeed, travelling with foldies and multi-modal transporting is truly the way to go!





When the 130pm train finally came, we broke into 2 teams for easier access into the compartments. This being the Queen's Birthday, the train was full and we had standing room only. YC's team in the rear was fortunate to meet up with 85 Thai cyclists who was on their way down to Chumphon and they got along like a house on fire. Sue and Claudine in that hour, got more people to join their Asia Cycling Network Club on Facebook than they did for the whole year.

                                                          
Pic Claudine

I was with George, Wendy and KC and we had to stand for the most time with the local folks all squished in. But for 60 cents, we could not complain. However what was annoying was the constant comings and goings of vendors selling drinks and snacks, and they had to squeeze past us. But heh, they have to make a living and I respect that.

                             

When we finally arrived at Baan Saphan 1.5 hrs later, we got out happily! We could breathe again. It was nice to be in the open and free once more. We took our time to assemble our foldies and I was so pleased to be welcomed by a very cute little dog at the train station. While waiting for the rest, I played with this friendly pup and dogs are so special.

                     

First order of the day was to get some refreshments and we found a lovely cafe that served fries and drinks. That got us going and we went in search for a place to stay. We enquired at the Ladawan Boutique Hotel and I nearly fell off the chair when the receptionist was happy to give me 4 rooms at an incredible 500B or US$14 each. Though the hotel was a bit old and the airconditioning system was from the 70s, it was clean, cool and spacious, located just by the beach. We could not be happier! Our bikes too had special VIP parking.



One added bonus is having an absolutely upmarket seafood restaurant just opposite Ladawan which YC went to check out. They got us a table just by the sea and with soft lighting, warm ambience and divine spicy Thai dishes, we were truly in heaven.




Pic KC

This restaurant also has a cafe attached and I was amused at its secret for brewing special drinks...


Some of us felt a little guilty about taking the train to Baan Saphan but it was nothing to feel guilty about. We contributed a little to the National Railways, experienced how the locals would travel, skipped a boring section of highway riding, made new cycling friends and most of all, put our travel back on schedule. O yes, and I met the cutest dog ever!

All for the price of 16B, I think today was indeed a very memorable day of our adventure!

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The bravery of the Thai Air Force personnel in defending Prachuap Khiri Khan is something worth reading. When the Japanese Army landed on 8 Dec 1941 on the beaches of PKK, the air force crew mounted an effective resistance to the invaders using just 6 heavy and 2 light machine guns.

The Thai lost 38 and suffered 27 injured but they managed to kill more than 200 and wound over 300 Japanese soldiers.

Wiki records it here - The Battle of Prachuap Khiri Khun.

Pic Readma.com

Saturday, August 20, 2016

FSTR Day 4 - Coasting down to Little Home, Kuibari. 78km

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2 very impressive 16" touring foldies!

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The lovely bike lanes south out of Hua Hin. Pic KC



                     

                     












Leaving White Wood House was hard as we all truly enjoyed this quaint, characterful and lovely place. As good guests, we cleaned it up properly before locking up and riding out in search for breakfast. I left a little before the others as I wanted to see the Nong Kae Train Station first which was just 3 mins ride away. I've always been fascinated with train stations especially older ones and Nong Kae did not disappoint. Standing here, the time could very well be 1960s.

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We hit the jackpot for breakfast when we came across an eatery that served a typical Thai breakfast - rice with a variety of rich curries and other yummies. Just put whatever you fancy on your plate and off you go. As easy as that and the owner was so pleased to feed 8 hungry cyclists. Such a satisfying breakfast costs us just about 40B each or US$1.20 only.

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Cycling out of Hua Hin with a full tank, we were happy as Larry. The weather was cloudy and today's ride was to Sam Roi Yot Beach, an easy 48km away. We had planned to check out some promising resorts there like the Blue Resort and Green Beach Resort, and if they had specials, we would just stay there and enjoy the beach.

Thailand is certainly aiming to become more bike friendly and we were pleasantly surprised when we hit beautiful dedicated bike lanes as we left Hua Hin. This went on for a considerable distance and we want to register our big "Kup khoon kup" to the Thai government. We saw that it was put to good use with several cyclists using it including the odd motorcycle ridden by an elderly lady. To be fair, she was very considerate and that is how it should be. Being here was much safer than the roads with fast moving cars and huge trucks. Don't blame her one bit!



Taking a short cut along some country roads, we enjoyed the tranquility of riding under shaded trees and skirted around the Pranburi Forest Park. We spotted too a few roadies doing their training rides here, enjoying themselves. One of them, a retired teacher Khun Yeh, was so happy to meet us and we stopped for a short chat that could not end. Truly we cyclists are a kindred spirit no matter where we come from! Such a bubbly and lovely lady she was and all these bike lanes were probably lobbied for very hard by the seniors in the cycling community here in Hua Hin area.


Khun Yeh! Pic KC

As we veered inland, the slight rolling hills appeared and it was fun to be chugging up those and then speeding down. The ride so far has been flat as a pancake so we really welcome them. Crossing a long bridge, we stopped to admire the scenery and KC, feeling full of love, insisted that we took a group pic to commemorate this beautiful moment.

                              
Pic KC

Route 4008 soon led us to the delightful coastline once again and we could not believe our eyes when we saw more bike paths. This time they were marked red and we can only imagine how well used they must be during the high season. But for now, we had them all to ourselves!


The sun was really doing its job by now and we were all feeling rather scorched and in need of a cold drink. We cycled for miles and there was absolutely nothing in sight! When it came to situations like these, the best thing to do is to say a little prayer although I feel really bad about bothering our Father for such small things. 

VT and I went to the front to scout for a suitable drink stop and when we were nearly at the end of our patience, a beautiful blue cottage appeared on our right. The Blue Butterfly was too good to be true. We scampered in and requested the kind staff to turn on the airconditioning, which they very nicely obliged. Cold drinks were the order of the day and we had lots, especially our favorite Cha Yen.


Pic KC

This cafe is probably the most warm and quaint stopover we have made. Filled with lovely decorations all in the blue theme, with teddy bears and soft toys, flowery cushions, white wrought iron chairs, cosy sofa and even an embroidered suspended chair on the verendah. The owner could very well be inspired by some Enid Blyton storybook and we were so grateful and happy to be here. We felt no shame in making ourselves feel right at home! This is a must visit cafe if you are ever in the vicinity.


With the noon sun searing above, we did not want to leave this cool butterfly sanctuary, preferring to be cocooned here permanently. But move on, we must and I reluctantly got everyone to saddle up and make tracks. It was the hardest thing to do but Team LTF is such a wonderful bunch and no one complained.

The ride in the heat was not easy but the sea breezes and shady roads helped somewhat. We cycled pass some Karst hills and stopped at a Thai temple where there was a pond filled with terrapins. Kids were enjoying themselves and it is always nice to see kids at play. 

As we were riding along the road, YC alerted us to a famous bakery and we thought that was a splendid idea for lunch. It turned out that the La A Natu was more than that! It is an upmarket beach resort and done so in the most unique style with hints of Bali. Thatched roof, bamboo bridges, dining hut and white sand beach. 

                     

It also had the most amazing antique vehicles, especially a classic Daihatsu Midget pick up in bright yellow and a white Vespa scooter complete with sidecar. Our lunch there was not cheap as expected of a classy resort like this but we enjoyed it thoroughly.


George and Wendy, great friends indeed! Pics KC

With all the extended breaks and dilly dallying, it was a miracle that we actually finally arrived at Sam Roi Yod beach in the blazing sun. I looked at one hotel and gave it a miss as it was really run down. Green Beach Resort is located at the end of the beach strip and looked very promising. A quick enquiry there proved fruitful as the rooms were new, they had a pool and was very well managed. However, it lacked character, at least to us as it looked like just another resort. The rates too were pretty steep at 1400B.

SRY Beach - KC

Claudine, still bubbling with energy, felt that we rode too little and wanted to press on to the next beach and we all agreed as it was only 3pm. Kurburi was another 30km away and we had plenty of time. A quick call to Little Home Resort there confirmed our villas at 800B and it was a done deal. 

Meanwhile, we wanted to just get some respite from the heat and once again, VT and I scouted for a nice place to chill. The Lord's hand led us to another beautiful place - The Cosy Cafe run by a NZ bloke married to a Thai wife. His chef (wife) was out and said he could only make very limited drinks but we asked if he could do a fresh lime drink for us. That, he could as he does it regularly for his family! We just planted ourselves in the shady grounds of his cafe drinking lots and some even went for a siesta.

The last 30km to Little Home proved to be the hardest despite the day cooling down a little. Turning inland again, there were some hills to climb but the tough part was the headwinds. When we had the winds behind us for a short stretch, we were flying but most times, we were struggling. At this stage, the group was pretty spread out and I dropped back to encourage those at the rear. Poor Sue was feeling the weight of her bike and struggled somewhat. But she always maintained a cheerful disposition and that truly is admirable.


A quick stop at a local drink stall was much appreciated as it was really hard work riding into the strong wind. The winds were so strong that everything on our table started flying and our bikes were blown off from their stand. 


The inland road finally intersected the coast once more and behold before our eyes was the Little Home Guest House, a simple local set up. The staff were ready for us and showed us to our quaint wooden villas. It was unfortunate that the cafe/restaurant was closed so we had to make do with luke warm water which we carried. Feeling a bit disappointed, at least we had beach front views at a budget price! A quick shower and laundry, we wasted no time to get ready for dinner.



Just 100m left of Little Home were a couple of seafood restaurants and we chose the best looking one. Turned out to be an excellent choice as it served one of the best dinners we had for this trip. What was nice too was that we were just on the beach with the music of the Carpenters serenading us. With 2 classic bicycles as decorations, we were destined to be here!

 

VT our Director of Food did excellently well and ordered the best dishes ever. The prawns stir fried in tamarind was exquisite and I enjoyed that very much. We had papaya salad, green curry chicken, fish cakes, mixed veggies etc and it was a meal to remember.

                             
                             
Pic KC

It has been a most relaxing ride coasting down to Little Home, enjoying a beautiful ride and amazing cafes/restaurants with a great bunch of people. We had planned for 45km and ended up nearly 80km and leaving things flexible and open adds to the joy of touring. 

I retired with gladness and gratitude at having the health to be able to enjoy this very special day indeed! If only each day was like today...