Monday, February 24, 2014

1000 Hills Day Four - Mae Malai with some assistance




Cowboy KC, privilege parking available..


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We left Pai in style - with 2 newish Toyota Hilux pick-up trucks arriving 0800 at Baan Pai Riverside.  It was to be a long 90+km ride to Mae Malai, at the end of Route 1095 and the first 30km are killer hills. Under the advice of Chris, we decided on this option and negotiated these "Hueys" 2 nights ago for US$60 total. They proved to be the best decision for the day as we snaked/climbed/hairpin our way out of the valley effortlessly thanks to 3.0 turbo diesels. Each vehicle carried 4 of us with ample space for our foldies and panniers, in supreme comfort to Huai Nam Dang National Park. As our bonnet pointed skywards during the journey at many moments, we were so glad to be inside the ute.

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The ride ended too soon after about an hour and we found ourselves at 4600ft peak where we were dropped off. It would have taken us 4 exhausting hours to end up here. We said goodbye to our Pilots and prepared our bikes for the downhill extravaganza. To enter the National Park required quite a hefty fee especially for foreigners so we skipped that and made our way down. Flying down on small wheels was simply pure joy and the milestones just zipped by so easily. We regrouped 10km later and saw ourselves surrounded by a gang of big touring motorcycles from Malaysia. They were astonished that we actually travelled by our steam up and down all those climbs (well almost all). We wished each other well and off they went with their twin engines throbbing away.



This rest area offered beautiful views and we played the tourist, snapping lots of pictures. The cherry blossoms were still in bloom and were so pretty in pink. With the temperature at a cool 18c and plenty of morning sun, this was a good day to be alive and on a bicycle going downhill. Somehow, my heart felt a deep sense of God’s goodness and I uttered a prayer of thanksgiving and praise to Him.


The downhills continued and we all descended at our own pace. KC chose to barrel down at warp speeds while I preferred to enjoy the scenery, feeding my hungry camera. The sharp hairpins were unbelievable and it was a blast to carve through them. I met the Howards after exiting one and Anne decided she had had enough and contemplated a quicker descend. Ian fortunately managed to knock some sense into her.


We regrouped again and that marked the end of our fun as it was cranking time once again. It was easy to get used to gliding downhill but not the other way round. Still knowing that the terrain was more downhill than uphill gave us the motivation and we were all getting stronger since leaving Mae Hong Son. 


Our aim was to hit Coffee Hill at the 32km, a well known stop that boasts the best coffee on 1095. What surprised me was the many other highway cafes that have sprouted up since I last visited here and one that really impressed me was a European style Viennese Hotel that was just 5km before Coffee Hill. Le Vintage looked really beautifully out of place in this part of Thailand and we wondered if we should have our coffee here but their menu was not as good as Coffee Hill.


It was a big struggle to reach Coffee Hill as the hills seemed rather demanding but when we all finally got there, we felt a great sense of relief as we really needed replenishment. We had a lovely Thai lunch that was artistically presented, especially my stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts.


One thing that really impresses about Coffee Hill 32 besides the excellent food and coffee are the rest rooms. Truly, this must be the best ones in the whole of Northern Thailand. It is clean and offers a splendid view. Never before relieving oneself has been so enjoyable!


It was hard to get back the cycling rhythm after such a nice rest and full meal so we just plodded along and took our time. Some of us apparently got a bit restless and started showing their true skills and colors! The things you can do on a Bike Friday...


Thailand is renown for artists and places that caught our attention were theme shops/cafe. We had fun with this romance place that offered a wedding seat for love birds. It was great to take our "wedding" pictures again and re-live 20-30 years of romance!


Our next stop was a place called Art Gamongta. It is a Cafe, home stay and art studio all wrapped in one and we had a lot of fun chatting with the very talented owner. They served very ice cold drinks as well as coffees and we nearly decided to spend the night in this intriguing place. Those who want to explore their artistic and creative talents will do well to spend a few days here.


It was hard to leave Art Gamonga but we had to as it was still another 30km or so to Mae Malai and the sun was soon setting down. For some reason, we all found our 2nd wind and were moving along at a very impressive clip especially our dear Papa Mike. With him ahead and punching the wind for all of us, we arrived at Mae Malai in no time.


Our abode was the Mae Malai Mansions and there was nothing mansion-ly about this. It was more an overnight stop for travelling salesmen but with big clean rooms with ice cold aircon and at A$12 each, we were not complaining. Dinner was simple noodles at this very small town and all the good restaurants were disappointingly closed. But like the travelling salesmen, we were just here for the night and even the loud karaoke didn't bother us too much as we drifted into a deep sleep, hard mattress notwithstanding.



Wednesday, February 19, 2014

1000 Hills Day Three - A Slice of Pai


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Pai is all about taking it easy, relaxing and just chilling out. So that is how our rest day in this beautiful town was to be enjoyed. That said, there is much to do here like hot springs, elephant camp, temples, waterfalls, WW2 bridge not to mention the many art galleries, cafes, restaurants etc. Breakfast was taken leisurely at the hotel, and we didn't meet up till late morning. Our first stop was to ride up 5km outside of town to the Yunanese village as it has a strong historical significance. This is where remnants of the Taiwanese 93rd Army settled after their failed war with Mao Tse Tung's forces in the 50s. They soon were fighting for Thailand against the Miao Communist and were given citizenship. The attraction thus is having Little China right here in the highlands of Thailand.


Since my last visit some years back, it has steadily been developed into a serious tourist attraction and I'm sad that it has lost its old village charm. Nevertheless, economic growth is good for its residents and especially when the biggest number of tourist comes from mainland China. The climb up there was easy enough and I enjoyed swapping bikes with Pete. His Tern P24 touring bike felt like a very competent Land rover.


With our bikes safely locked up, we enjoyed playing the tourist sampling all that Little China had to offer. It was good to be able to speak in Mandarin and browse through the many shops with interesting offerings of tea, souvenirs and preserved fruits. Some of us had fun on an ancient 4 seater ferries wheel manned by several strong blokes, and this was great fun even with basic technology. There was a real buzz as everything was in full swing and beautifully decorated in preparation for Chinese New Year.

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Lunch was Yunnan style and it was a good change from the usual fiery Thai cuisine we have been enjoying for the last few days. The speciality was of course stewed pork trotters eaten with buns among other delicacies.

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Our next stop was to check out the Piranha Fishing Pond as that sounded exciting. Getting there meant more climbs but thankfully only one very steep one. The views that passed us by did not disappoint and  was worth sweating for. 


Unfortunately when we got there, the pond was closed with a sign saying the owners were sick. Only a very lethargic dog greeted us with sleepy eyes. Tried feeding the fish with some bread, but it seemed they too were in dream land. Seems like the sign don't lie...

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KC, Cil and I decided to proceed uphill to see the Mor Pang waterfall while the others headed down back to town. It was a gradual climb of another 5km or so along quiet narrow country roads. For some reason, it seemed like forever to get there but we eventually did. 

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The waterfall was attractive and quite a few tourists were there, mostly arriving by motorbikes or vans. We 3 were the only ones on bicycles and that drew some curious stares. Who were these crazy people?


It was fun woosh-ing downhill back to town and we rode around to check out the happenings. As we were rather in need of a drink, it was good to see a soya milk stall by the road. This is one reason why I love Thailand as they make them so well here and one glass of delicious white protein was only about 20 US cents. Taken with crispy chinese donuts, it was just heavenly.


We enjoyed a spot of pre-dinner massage and that was really a balm to my aching legs. I had a rather strong elderly lady wearing a tiger skin blouse who enjoyed inflicting pain on me and that really sorted my aches out, though I cannot say honestly I'm in love her session. It didn't help too that there were mozzies dive bombing me, and I was glad I managed to shoot one down. 


The team assembled later at the hotel lobby and we walked for dinner to Nong Bier, instead of cycle. It was after all supposed to be our rest day. Nong Bier has been around in Pai for a very long time and is an icon. They serve value for money Thai food and the 80 yr old grandma manages the till. Good old fashion Chinese family run restaurant. I ordered Garlic Pork and rice which was simple but satisfying.


The second round of dinner was supposed to be wanton noodles 10 mins away but this was unfortunately closed. Disappointed! So we ended up having dessert at the Soya Milk stall again and this was a blessing in more ways than one. A group of youths were crowding around the only table at the stall and we ended up sitting on the curbside. However upon seeing us, they very kindly gave up their table. We could not believe their caring gesture. Turned out they were a bunch of youth after a church meeting and we enjoyed a little chat with their leaders. The outgoing Youth Pastor trained in Penang, Malaysia in the Baptist Seminary and they were descendants of the KMT army.

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We spend the rest of our evening wandering through the night market, eating and shopping again as we went along. The street music and sights of beautiful Pai make this such a special place to hang out and I felt sad we only enjoyed just a small slice of Pai. Must stay longer next time!

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Tuesday, February 18, 2014

1000 Hills Day Two - Up and down to Pai

To be read right to left... (Pic - MK Wheelosopher)


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For some reason, our night at Soppong was freezing and we were glad for our warm beds. The exhausting ride ensured we all slept like babies and we woke up a little later. Meeting at 830am was a bonus that we all needed and appreciated. It was great to see everyone fresh and chirpy when we gathered for breakkie. Instead of having the usual hotel fare, we ventured out to see what the hamlet of Soppong could offer. We were not disappointed especially when we have the sharp nose of foodie Papa Mike. He can smell good food from a mile.

We settled for a small eatery that served pots of freshly cooked Thai curries and specialities that was absolutely delectable. With hot steaming rice, this could very well be a full meal. But then again, the idea of a good breakfast in Thailand is pretty much the same for lunch and for dinner too!

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I was wondering where Papa disappeared to in the middle of our meal, and trust him to hunt for more food to augment the feast. He came back with delicious pork satays with sticky rice!

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We could not possibly set off immediately after such a humongous breakfast! One of the secrets in Little Eden is its must do nature trail just across the beautiful river. It is accessed by a lovely wooden suspension bridge that swayed left and right, making it great fun just crossing it. Filling our lungs with fresh morning air purified by the green trees of the forest, we were all very much alive.

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The trail takes 50 mins to loop but unfortunately, we had to turn back after 15 mins as we had to press on to Pai 45km away. It was already past 10am and Little Eden deserves a 2nd night to fully appreciate its lush and beautiful surroundings.

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It took us no time to meet once again at the lobby of Little Eden with our bikes all saddled up and ready to go. The terrain was very easy today. One long 15km climb and then all the way down to Pai, at least thats what our charts said. Once again, we got the hotel transport to send Papa to the peak with all our panniers as he has a knee injury. The plan was then we would ride down together. We said our goodbyes to Ms Phen, promising that we shall be back,  and rode our eager steeds East in the cool mid morning breeze.

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The first 6-7km was very gradual and then the serious climbing began. We all had to peel our layers off as our legs reported for work. But compared to the Wall at Mae Hong Son, it was "flattish" in comparison. I found myself feeling stronger and could manage the most without pushing. Soon, we saw Papa zooming past in a grey pick up waving away and compared to yesterday, I did not envy him as I was really enjoying the changing scenery before me. 


That said, the hills threw in some nasties and we just did our best and rode, or pushed at our pace. We really were in no hurry as we had the whole day to get to Pai.


Most times, KC was way in front but we always stopped to regroup regularly to make sure there aren't any lost sheep. Through all these sufferings, we bonded closer as a team as we took turns to encourage each other and shared our energy rations with one another. I think that is what makes touring together so special.

Before we knew it, we were on top the summit and both KC and I had a friendly race and crossed the finish line together. We were wondering where our Chief Pannier Officer was and found him relaxing under some shade with all our colorful bags. But poor him got eaten alive by pesky sandflies! This is a really popular stop and the government has taken great pains to make it attractive with nicely manicured gardens, picnic tables, viewing gallery, shops, toilets and ample parking. 


Understandably, the Hilltribe people were also there to offer delicious grilled sweet potatoes as well as photo opportunities with their colorfully dressed cutie kids, for a fee.

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We hung around for an hour or so to recover from the morning climb and had to force ourselves back on the saddle as we were all so rested and ready for a snooze. Fortunately, we were right at the top and the only way was down, sweet sweet down. 


I felt like parachuters jumping off the plane as I descended and the acceleration to 40-50km/h woke me up instantly. We had fantastic fun and we were even faster than a van especially around the many hairpins. Our brakes worked overtime and my hands were getting pretty numbed from squeezing the brakes constantly.
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It has to be said that the fastest downhill rider of all my adventure trips has always been Papa Mike as gravity favors him. I unfortunately do not get this privilege. But when we stopped to regroup several times, my champion was nowhere to be seen and that got us really worried. It was really nice of Pete and Jan to wait for him patiently. It is the Aussie way never to leave behind your mate. Suddenly, they saw the good Dr grinning and waving by, at the back of a speeding pick up truck! And we later got a call from him that he had 2 rear punctures on his Dahon Speed TR due to a faulty rim tape, and to meet in town.

The rest of us then rode together into Pai, and was astounded at how busy it has become. It is known as the Switzerland of Thailand as its in a valley among beautiful mountain ranges. Pai not so long ago attracted those who were looking for an "alternate" lifestyle - read sex, drugs and rock & roll, not necessary in that order. Now it has mature to become a fashionable hangout for wealthy Bangkok yuppies especially on the weekends. It still has its charm especially off the main tourist drag and I was glad we had 2 nights here to soak in its offerings.

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Our hotel was the classy Baan Pai Riverside Resort and this was booked 5 months ago by our Perth friends who stayed here. It is a very charming and rustic place that instantly brought big nods of approval from the team. We were all given quaint wooden bungalows but with all the modern conveniences, set in lush green bamboo surroundings. While the team were all busy checking in, I went out to rescue Papa who was wandering the streets of Pai with a flat tire. 


We celebrated our arrival in Pai after a nice shower and obligatory laundry with lovely drinks at the bar.  As always, it was great fun reflecting upon the short but demanding ride from Soppong and I cannot help but be amazed that our little wheels can transport us with such big fun.


We were spoilt for choice when it came to dinner but decided for Charlie and Lek thanks to the WhatsApp instant recommendation of Chris Wee, our Thai guru based in Spore. It served delicious Thai food cooked by Mrs Lek and has been around for ages. 
  

We walked the busy streets of Pai after dinner and this being a Saturday, it was packed with vendors and tourists. Under the cool winter's night, it was a most pleasant experience. I then saw some hot air lanterns in the sky and suggested we sent one up in the air. That was met with great squealing and excitement from the team. We looked for an appropriate place to launch our spacecraft like school children and found a deserted school field. Before lighting the wick, we scribbled our messages, then launched it. It was fun seeing our lighted lantern lift up into the darkness of the night effortlessly. We waited till it disappeared from sight, feeling satisfied that it had reached the heavens with our messages of thanksgiving.


We spend the rest of the evening sampling the offerings of the night market, shopped for light weight souvenirs and managed to enjoy a well deserved Thai traditional massage. That stretched and cracked every joint in our body, and got me well prepared for bed. But not before downing a most amazingly delicious burger...

It's so good to be in Pai again!