Thursday, August 18, 2016

FSTR Day 2 - A folding market, then off to Chao Samran, 65km

                     

                     



                    






Pic KC




 You can always count on 7/11 for well stocked cold drinks in Thailand.


                      
Actual salt from the salt plains and Ollie.



Pic KC




                      


People flock from all over the country and indeed the world to witness this amazing folding market at Samut Songkram. For some reason that I cannot figure out, a market has evolved over the years just by the railway line near the Maeklong Station.

                                               

It is like a regular market selling fruit, veggies, spices, fish, meat etc but when the train comes by several times a day, this sets the stall holders packing their wares and folding up the shades to allow the train to pass by. As soon as the train is gone, things get back to normal. It is fascinating to see some displays left so near to the tracks and the train just goes over them, with inches to spare.



We gathered early at the resort's lobby at 0730 and walked 1 km to the Maeklong Railway Markets to catch the 0830 arrival. Although this being a Tuesday, there were hordes of tourists like us who were curious. We each picked a stall to wait for the train and sure enough, a whistle was blown and that got everyone scurrying to make way for it's coming. I offered to help a stall holder but she said no need as she does this several times a day and was an expert. Take a look at this amazing sight!


We were all excited and fascinated at the Railway Markets and truly, this is worth a visit. It was time to fuel up for our ride today and we were spoilt for choice. I was delighted to find that my fav Thai breakfast, Khao Tom,  a rice porridge was available and enjoyed that very much.

                                 

Saying goodbye to Fern and her the wonderful family at Baan Siriphon was difficult and they came around to bid us farewell. It ended up a rather longish affair as some of our foldies needed adjustments here and there and after 30 mins, we were finally ready to take off.



We were very pleased that YC had mapped out a route that involved crossing the river in town and then taking the back roads down south towards Chao Samran. For many, it was the first time in a Thai river ferry and this always never fails to put a smile on my face.



Riding along the quiet country roads. the 8 of us were literally singing as we glided together carrying everything we needed with us in our panniers. There is just nothing in the world that can beat this feeling of freedom, of moving with our own power, of not knowing what laid ahead as we began our 500km adventure. The weather was sunny but not scorching, at least in the morning. I had my trusty Da Brim helmet visor which not only gave me good shade, liken to riding with an umbrella, but also protected me when the rains came.


Pic KC

Some of the roads we took were not sealed and that got us a bit worried especially those of us on 16" wheels but our bikes rolled along surprisingly with great aplomb.

                            

As YC our navigator led, VT very kindly swept behind making sure that everyone kept up and no one is left behind. It takes a very special person to do this as it involves being patient, encouraging and caring. It must be said that VT did an excellent job throughout the whole trip and we owe him our gratitude.

                             
Pic KC

I was at this stage concern about Sue who was touring with us for the first time on her brand new Brompton. Like all newbies, she had also somewhat over-packed which is quite understandable and was carrying at least double the usual weight. She nearly brought her hair dryer! However, Sue did really well as she is a passionate roadie!

                             

As the heat started to turn up, we were looking for a place desperately to cool down. Divine providence came as we crossed the highway. There before us laid a beautiful aircon cafe decorated with much colour and cute farm animals and caricatures. This Disneyland looking place looked rather out of place in the barren countryside filled with trees and bush but we were elated!


Pic KC

We had our fill of iced tea/coffees and lots of cold water. Many had a ball taking pics of this absolutely gorgeous cafe and nobody wanted to leave. Here is KC really getting into the "Love the Fold" mode...

                                   
Pic KC

But move on, we must and we did so reluctantly. As the noon sun did it's job, we were struggling to keep cool in the heat. So long as we were moving, the breeze in our face made it bearable. We took many short breaks to re-group and have water and that is important. Today was such that there was no plans and we were flexible. That really made a whole lot of difference as we could choose to stop over night anywhere we wished. 

 

The unexpected always make things exciting and we had our first puncture of the trip. George's classic Da Bike's rear tire was losing air suddenly. YC helped him sort that out while the rest of us went on a bit further to find a shady place to wait. These sometimes can be moments of blessings as it enables the team to rest and with the sun blazing, we were actually thankful.

The repair took a bit longer than usual but we were not complaining. When we got on the move again, clouds appeared and that made things a bit cooler which meant we could increase the pace. 

Pic KC

It was great to be cycling by the coastline and when we crested a bridge, the magnificent view demanded a stop. The river that ran underneath us was huge and wide and provided the lifeline for many communities here.

                            

We continued on towards a town and this was when we noticed George falling way behind. Poor him was feeling unwell due to consuming too heavy a breakfast and we were really worried when we had to wait a really long time for him at 7/11. When he finally appeared, we were glad but George looked really pale and sick. A bit of rest, some medication and a prayer to Jesus for healing, George miraculously recovered and felt much better. 

As were going to set off, Wendy's Dahon Mantis was next to be struck by the devious puncture elf. It is said that a person's true character can be seen under times of stress and this was when George really shined. I asked if he was ok with what was happening, and dear old George just broke into a smile and said, "Small issue lah!"...

                              

With all the drama, we were all getting a bit famished as it approached 3pm. Dark clouds started to pour as well and YC marked out a restaurant for us. Due to language challenges, we all ordered the same dish - chicken basil with egg and rice. It was rather ordinary especially after last night's feast but nobody complained as it filled us up and was packed with energy. The heavens poured as we gobbled our late lunch and stopped when we were ready to leave. Such was the assurance for me of His hand over us.

                                                         

The rest of the journey took us through vast areas of salt farms and this reminded me of similar salt farms in Cambodia near the Vietnamese border of Ha Tien. We were glad to be able to ride through such a beautiful area and it made for excellent photos.


As we rode through these magnificent plains, out of the blue in sight was The Banleam Country Shop that was actually a cafe run by a fellow cyclist.  This was the most beautiful sight for any cyclist who have not had their coffee/tea fix and we were elated. With a most agreeable slogan like this, who can disagree?


The Banleam Cafe was exquisitely decorated with nice touches of antiques, traditional wooden furniture and even the owner's classic bicycle. Set among the salt plains with breezy cool winds, we were all too delighted drinking our freshly made Cha Ron and munching on nuts and nibbles.

                             
Pic KC

While waiting for our drinks, KC went off opposite to explore a salt farm and we heard the dogs barking and protesting his presence. But true to his excellent social skills, he won them over with his charm and returned with a huge chunk of salt for us to see.

                             
Pic KC

It was getting late and we pushed on towards our destination Chao Samran Beach. As the sun slowly went down, the headwinds went up significantly and we struggled to cycle. It helped that we drafted each other and try as we did, it was a slog maintaining even 15km/h. Some parts of this route it started to rain as well and that was very welcome. Claudine however seem to have had too much caffeine and was like the Energizer Bunny, all sprightly and bouncy. Life is not fair indeed. For the rest of us mere mortals, we took every opportunity to get some rest when able.


 Pics KC

To break the monotony, YC led us into a small village road which was brilliant as we came across a very nice Chinese Temple. Taking the road less travel is usually the way we like it as we get to see so much more.

Pic KC

Continuing on our route towards Chao Samran, we spotted a food fair of sorts and that was a timely break for a bit of exploration and replenishment. Our eye caught a huge figure of 2 faces in love and some of us curious cats went to check it out.



Turned out to be not so lovely after all as the ground there soon turned to mud. Tires and footwear got stuck with the most stubborn mud, almost like sticky clay and it was a pain cleaning it out. Curiosity in this instance, nearly "killed" the cat.

Meanwhile not so curious me was enjoying a freshly cooked Pad Thai with YC and it was really "Aroy!". Many stalls there sold all types of simple food and souvenirs and the somewhat upmarket name of the place, "The Art of Salt" didn't quite match what was offered.

                     

As we finally arrived at Chao Samran, it was unusual for me not to have a booking. While that offered flexibility, it also meant a risk that hotels were all booked out and we may have to sleep in a barn like Joseph and Mary, especially with 8 people in tow.

Once again, the guidance of the Lord led us to a most suitable abode - Bryde's Resort. I have checked this out on the net and it had good reviews. Passing through this stretch with many nice hotels and resorts, we wanted something that was under 1000B per night which was going to be a challenge. When I finally found it, we rode into the resort only to find it deserted. My heart sank! No one was in sight and I rang my bell and shouted "Sawadee Kup!"  Fortunately, the caretaker finally showed up. A fierce looking man in his 40s with crew cut hair and the first thing he said was he spoke no English. That did not deter me and as it turned out, he was a really nice bloke. 


We communicated enough to get 4 beautiful villas at 800B each. I was so happy as this was newish and so clean. Travelling in low season certainly has its advantages.


Dinner was even cheaper as a nearby eatery which was about to close. Seems everywhere was closed so we felt very grateful that they opened the kitchen for us. It was amazing to enjoy a very nice dinner all for 905B or US$4 each and we ordered quite a bit of seafood!

                      

                                               

We turned in happy at how the day had panned out. Everyone slept very well except for poor KC who did not want to attend a soloist recital in his room and decided to plonk himself comfortably at the reception.  I was glad he got a good night's sleep too. 

Thank God for a truly special day indeed!

Pic KC

FSTR Day 1 - Travelling smart to Samut Songkram









                       



                      





             


It is always so exciting to meet the rest of the gang at the airport before any trip and today, it was no different. All our months of planning finally came to fruition. This was to be the last leg of our ride from Malaysia to Bangkok!  It was great to actually see and talk to each other face to face, and not on social media! Team JB set off really early to catch the 1030am flight to Bangkok, leaving their home at 530am and reaching Changi Airport before 7am. This is understandable as the Causeway can be so unpredictable. When they Whats App me to say they have arrived, I was still in bed at home!

                                     

It was so easy to check in with Jetstar, a most bike friendly airline and with 25kg booked @ S$70 one way to Bangkok, this was truly the start of many great deals of our FSTR Adventure. We had a lovely breakfast and chat at the T1 Staff canteen before boarding the plane, all excited like school kids on an excursion. The 2.5 hr flight whizzed by in no time and we arrived at the very stylish Suvarnabhumi Airport fresh but hungry. There, we got our data plans for our mobile phone and was met by Prim, my amazing Thai Nong who I have known for nearly 20 years during uni days.

                                   

She very kindly arranged for 2 Hiace Mini Vans to whisk us off immediately to Baan Siriphon Resort, some 90km south west of Bangkok for 4800B. Anyone who knows the horrific traffic of Bangkok will never attempt to cycle directly out of that huge and congested city. This truly is the smart way out literally!

                                 

Our VIP van truly lived up to its name where inside was luxurious and spacious, having lots of room for all 8 of us while our foldies all rode in a more utilitarian van. We got takeaway lunches to save time and before we knew it, we were at the beautiful grounds of our resort. Baan Siriphon was chosen as it is the #1 hotel by Trip Advisor in the Maeklong area and is strategically located just by the peaceful river. It is a traditional home-style family run business with Fern, the Manager who welcomed us ever so warmly, together with her parents. She is a graduate of Chulalongkorn University in Marine Biology and speaks English fluently.



First business of the day was assembling our foldies. One can never know what condition the bikes will be in and fortunately, all were intact except for Claudine's Tern. It had a missing spacer for the handlebar post, something that our Chief Mechanic KC could fit without batting an eyelid.



People come to Samut Songkram mainly for 2 reasons, the amazing floating markets as well as the railway markets. Fern recommended us chartering the whole boat at a very reasonable 1500B (US$38) and we all hopped in to explore the river side attractions. It was quite a challenge to communicate with the boatman who spoke absolutely zero English but he was such a nice and obliging guy.

                              

Cruising up the river with the setting sun was very special as we absorbed the living museum before us as people went along their daily chores, fishing, washing, bathing, mending nets, drying fish etc.



The Amphawa Floating Markets unfortunately was closed, this being a Monday and was like a ghost town save for a few shops opened. On the weekends, this place is packed to the rafters and in a sense, we were glad we missed the crowds.

                              

We managed to find a local seafood restaurant and a quick call to Nong Prim sorted out the dishes which impressed us no end. The joke was to keep the receipt and just show it to the next restaurant we eat at. What stunned us was how reasonable the prices were for delicious dishes of fish, prawns, squid, vegs etc plus beer, it worked out to be an unbelievable US$6 per person. Indeed staying away, far far away from Bangkok has its advantages.

  

  

After dinner, we went on a cruise to spot fireflies. This is another reason why people come here to the Maeklong. At first we were skeptical as someone told us that they were all just stealthy Christmas lights placed in some bush by the river to fool the tourists but when the boatman caught one with his bare hands and showed us, we became believers. It was amazing to see these marvelous insects produce bright sparks of lights and discussing fire flies were the topic of the day...



Mr Boatman really went out of his way to show us about every single firefly bush till we were all fire flied out! It was time to head back to Baan Siriphon and at the private jetty, it was so nice to see Fern and her mom waiting for us. Complimentary hot tea was then prepared for us and such is the warm and undeserved hospitality showered upon us. I enjoyed getting to know Fern and her family better and learned lots. Secretly, I truly admired their simple country lifestyle and wished I could spend more time here.

                                                 

It had been a long day getting here - by plane, vans and then on to boats. That really got us quite tired and we all hit the sack without any difficulty. If anything, today has been a truly special and smart start to our FSTR Adventure and we look forward to the days ahead as we peddle down the Gulf of Thailand on our foldies.







Saturday, August 6, 2016

Singapore Cycling on the Ride Track




I was very pleased to open the Sunday Times of 7 Aug 2016 at breakfast and read an article about how cycling is really picking up in Singapore. With cars strategically priced 4 - 5 times more than other countries to manage congestion, and greater demands on public transport, many people are turning to the humble bicycle for their transport solution.

It is heartening to know that infrastructure for cycling is getting a much needed ramp-up in Singapore with extended bicycle paths constructed all over the island under the National Cycling Plan. The goal of putting in 700km of park connectors and dedicated bike paths is truly admirable considering Singapore is just a small island of 50km by 27km. Very soon, it is possible to get from the suburbs of Toa Payoh or Marine Parade to Marina Bay City Centre in just 30 minutes by bicycle, safely and congestion free. Bike sharing scheme is also being implemented soon and it is indeed a very exciting time for Singapore.

More about Singapore's impressive transport solutions here and it's goal of being a "car-lite" country. Besides the obvious heath benefits of cycling, the time and cost efficiency of the humble bicycle is truly compelling as can be seen in this chart.

imgintegrated8
Pic fm Land Transport Master Plan

But what caught my eye in the article is the feature of several families who are already making cycling their transport, 2 of which are personal friends of mine.



George and Wendy are regulars on Lovethefold and you will recognised them in many of our adventures. They are in fact on the VSTR Adventure starting tomorrow! George's passion is the restoration of old folding bicycles and there is no couple more jolly, easy going and fun than them.



William and Grace are both dedicated Brompton riders and I met them last year in Penang Campaign for a Lane ride or known as CFAL. William commutes to work and it is great to see him post of his rides daily on Facebook.  They very generously blessed me with a very useful gift for my Brompton and I am looking forward to touring with them one day.

It has taken several years of hard work by many cycling groups and other stakeholders including Love Cycling Singapore to convince the government that this is the way forward. Kudos to everyone of them in making this paradigm shift a reality and it is excellent that Singapore has a government that is responsive.

Singapore is certainly on the ride track like many other cycle friendly cities of the world. Though she took a longer time to get here, it is always better late than never.



Pic by my buddy Matt Chia


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You can read the online version of this article in the Straits Time here.

Friday, August 5, 2016

Singing and riding in the rain!




There is a certain indescribable joy about being in the rain.  Gene Kelly's famous song of 1952, I'm Singing in the Rain captures this beautifully and the lyrics give you a sense of what it is like...

I'm singing in the rain
Just singing in the rain
What a glorious feelin'
I'm happy again
I'm laughing at clouds
So dark up above
The sun's in my heart
And I'm ready for love
Let the stormy clouds chase
Everyone from the place...

If you have not tried riding your bicycle in the rain, perhaps it's time to give it a go. Our upcoming ride in Thailand was deliberately chosen in the middle of the monsoon season for this simple reason. Here in the tropics, cycling in 35c blazing sun with high humidity literally gives me a bad migraine. On the other hand, gliding through the cool breeze with fresh raindrops peltering on your face with the sound of your tires splashing through the wet road is totally magically!

Here are some tips to help make riding in the rain much more enjoyable and safer that have worked for me over the many years of touring in the rain. Many are common sense really.

1.  Mudguards/Fenders - Though most unsexy nor glamorous, it is a real must for wet weather comfort. Getting water constantly up your back and everywhere from spinning tires is most uncomfortable.

                                                

2.  Lights for visibility - This is certainly compromised in the rain and it is essential to be seen in traffic for added safety. Front and rear lights, preferably in blinking mode is a must.

3.  Da Brim helmet visor - Much have been written about this before but I consider this a most essential equipment in wet weather riding. Worn together with a shower cap over the helmet, it provides comfort, shelter and most important of all, helps us to see the view in front even in the heaviest downpours. If you need more info on Da Brim, click here.

                             

4. Rain gear - The perennial question of whether to don a rain coat often comes to me and my answer is I prefer to ride without one if it is in the tropics. Reason is that it can get so hot like a sauna while cycling! I rather just ride in my normal bike attire sans padded shorts. When soaked wet, those padded shorts is liken to riding with soiled diapers. When it gets chilly, I wear a light wind breaker.

5. Foot wear - Shoes and socks work well in the dry, not so in the rain. I use cheap plastic "Croc" sandals when I tour. The key is to make sure it grips well in the wet and has covered toe area for safety. Yes, it looks very uncool but for me it works! It helps too that is is cheap - about US$10 or less.

                                 
                               

6. A dry towel - Kept in a waterproof bag in my jersey. It's nice to be able to wipe your face and glasses dry from time to time.

7. Chain lube - Very essential as all the rain will wash away any lubrication on the chain. A simple rag to clean the muck off the chain and a quick lube will do wonders.

                              

For this trip, I have decided to use my Bike Friday Tikit and it comes equipped with high performance Schwalbe Kojak tires that are slicks. This is by far the best road tires and offers exceptional cornering lean angles. However in wet roads, this is certainly not ideal and I have swapped the front tire to regular threaded Schwalbe Marathon for better wet weather traction.

                                              

I have left the rear alone as a rear skid is very controllable and does not bother me much. However if you lose your front, it takes a highly skilled cyclist to recover and I don't have that skill.

Shoot me any questions if you have and if I can help, it is my pleasure. Meanwhile, here is Gene Kelly's classic song which I hope will inspire you to go riding and singing in the rain!


Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Final South Thailand Ride (FSTR) Adventure, Aug 2016 - Prelude







In just a few days time, 8 of us will be flying into Bangkok to complete the final stage of our South Thailand Ride. The original idea was to cycle from the border of Malaysia to Bangkok in 3 stages, a total of about 1300km on side roads. The first trip was done 2 years ago where we did the middle section from Phuket to Chumphon, covering over 450km. Last year, in the 2nd stage we did Langkawi, Malaysia to Krabi and that was buckets of fun literally as we experienced torrential rains.

This FSTR is a bit different as we shall be heading southwards and the reason for that is we are betting very optimistically that there will be more tailwinds, though crosswinds seem to be the order of the day. We shall be cycling down the Gulf of Thailand cruising through many exquisite beaches and famous seaside towns like Cha'am and Hui Hin as well as the lesser known ones like Prachup Khiri Khan. At Chumphon, we will catch the night train to Lonely Planet's acclaimed Food Capital of the World - Penang!

Click here for a larger version of the picture

The rainy season is why we choose to do these rides in August as cycling through the cool drizzle in clouded conditions sure beats the hot searing sun. Especially in this part of the world, the high humidity can literally drain you. And when it pours, we simply just take shelter and wait as the world gets a thorough wash before our eyes, hopefully munching on hot banana fritters.

Special mentioned must be said about these awesome people who are crazy enough to sign up for all 3 trips. Ying Chang, my trusted sweeper and navigator par excellence who will be riding his Dahon Speed TR touring foldy. KC Auyeong, our Chief Engineer and resident comedian. There is nothing he cannot fix! Also George and Wendy, an amazing couple who love restoring old bicycles and are gifted Dog Whisperers. Plenty of Soi dogs in Thailand, and that is perhaps why they keep coming back.


First STR Adventure Team - 2014
YC, The Roscoes, Wendy, George, Ped and KC


Second STR Adventure Team - 2015
George, VT, Claudine, Wendy, KC, YC, Celia, Ped, Lance & Papa Mike

The other members of this team hail from JB, Malaysia. VT and Claudine only joined LTF adventures last April to Bintan but have become regulars and it is so good to have them. VT is a true blue foodie and his wife Claudine is a real live wire, bringing sparks of joy to everyone. She also has a bicycle blog  which is absolutely hilarious.

There are 2 Gospels that I live for in my life. One of course is the Gospel of God's Good News. The 2nd one is the Gospel of folding bicycles, especially touring on them. That is why it is a privilege to have Sue, a first time tourer, join us for this trip. She is gregarious and brims with enthusiasm. Sharing the good things that we are passionate about with others is so important.


Pic "stolen" from FB

It is always a challenge to decide which bicycles to use. I have been using my Bike Friday Expedition for the previous trips but this time, I proposed using small 16" wheel foldies. The reason for that is this ride is relatively flat and we do have to literally sleep with our bikes on the over-night train from Chumphon to Penang. The smaller wheels would prove to be more challenging as well to ride compared to 20" ones, but trying new experiences is what makes life interesting.



Hence, I shall be using my Bike Friday Tikit and this is the first time I shall be riding her for such a long 550km trip. Uncle KC too has stepped up to this challenge and will be using his Flamingo London, an even more "English" version of the Brompton. These two 16" cousins have traveled together to Betong Thailand as well as climbed Frasers Hill some months back.



Sue actually bought a brand new Brompton for this trip and will be experimenting a novel way of carrying her Ortliebs, in the front. Usually, Bromptoneers would use the famed T-Bag but as in all things, there is always a first time and it does look workable.



George has also stepped up to the challenge and will be using his classic 16" Da Bike, while Wendy will be riding the Dahon Mantis. VT and Claudine, like YC will be on proven 20" foldies; a KHS T3 and a green Tern named Cup Cake. With a milieu of different foldies coming together, this will be such a blast.

So stay tune for the FSTR Adventure. We have a few more things to be sorted and packed but the key is travel light. Some would argue that the most exciting part of any adventure is the preparation. I agree whole heartedly!

I invite you to join us from wherever you may be!