SRT Day 4 - Pootling in Hat Yai (Warning - more food than cycling here!)

Pic Berenda

Pootle - to travel or go in a relaxed or leisurely manner (The Free Dictionary)

Hat Yai is a city worth spending a bit more time and we had planned another day here. Many Malaysians come here specifically for the weekend as it boasts of excellent food, shopping and night life. Though the cycling was over for all of us, Christoph decided to continue on solo towards Phattulang on Highway 4 today, some 100km north. His efficient wife had already booked a hotel for him. The next day, he would turn left on Highway 4 and cycle 70km towards Trang where he would fly off to Bangkok to meet his family. But before he went, we had to celebrate with a Dim Sum breakfast together at the best place, but getting there was an unpleasant adventure.

It poured cats and dogs and we decided to take the hotel mini Song Thew to ChokDee Dim Sum. It was only 1.5km away but our driver seemed to take forever to get there. Upon reaching there, it was closed. So he suggested another Dim Sum restaurant and it too was closed. One more recommendation from him we ended up at a Dim Sum place just outside our hotel.

It suddenly dawn on me that this driver was really out to scam us as he gets paid per trip. As someone who takes tourists around to all the restaurants etc for years on end, he would have known when these famous restaurants are open/closed. He charged us 480B for these 1-2km sojourns and we were truly not impressed! It is very unfortunate when people make money their god and seek to earn it dishonestly, under the guise of being helpful.

As the saying goes. you can only con a person once and later in the day when we wanted to go somewhere, that driver came up to us again and offered his us services. Unbelievable! Thankfully in Thailand, this is more the exception than the rule.

Do not take this Taxi in Hat Yai!

We put that behind us and enjoyed a lovely Dim Sum nevertheless. The Dim Sum taste is quite different from what I am used to but it was still very good. We all felt a bit guilty about indulging in such a yummy breakkie except for Christoph, who needed the energy.

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It was soon time to bid farewell to Christoph and we all gathered to send him off in style at the hotel lobby with a prayer and good wishes. 

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It was sad to see Christoph riding off alone in the rain but he among all of us, is just blessed with outstanding fitness being a triathlete and all. The BMW M3 was finally unleashed and he could go as fast as he wanted on the Thai Autobahn, and he did.

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Meanwhile, we had plans to cycle to the lovely beach side coastal town of Songkhla. It is a mere 30km away and I have never been there before. But the rains were still heavy and we had to postpone this visit for another trip. 

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This being a Tuesday, the famous Tyro Bike shop was also closed so what better way to mull away the time than to take a walk in the city and explore the many interesting sights and shops by foot. We also went to buy our coach tickets back to Singapore and decided on Grassland after 3 enquiries. The others were 850B but Grassland was 900B and offered better seats and non-stop travel straight to Singapore. We got prime seating and it was to leave at 1230pm, arriving at Woodlands causeway at 4am, which was perfect as it avoided the peak hour jam.

YC told us about a mountain bike shop that was opened and we went to take a look. Unfortunately, it was catered more for MTBs and roadies, and although they had some foldies, there was nothing much for us foldies in terms of accessories. YC needed a new 20" tire but all they had was some local brand that would be out of place on his hi end ultra light Dahon MU SL. Tyro was our last hope!

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We were passing by some shops when an elderly lady invited us to sample her Popiah (some sort of vegetable roll). She was truly a very persuasive and warm lady and we obliged. Turned out that her Popiah was seriously good with crab meat and sausage on top! This was a great prelude to lunch!

Just beside her shop was a restaurant that sold amazing roast meats. Looking at the crowds instantly told us that this was a "die die must try" eatery! Nan Yuan Restaurant did not disappoint as my Char Siew/Roast Pork Rice was absolutely succulent. Crispy, soft, sweet and just marvelously done. 

We also had some crab meat rolls which is like our Spore Ngoh Hiang, except stuffed with crab meat. This is truly how I prefer to eat my crabs!!!

Pics Berenda

There is a blog post about Nan Yuen worth reading written by a local and if ever you are in Hatyai, this should be in your list of must eat! You can also check their Facebook page here. 

We needed a wheelchair after such a satisfying meal to move ourselves out of Nan Yuen and as we walked back to the hotel, we came across a most fascinating coffee retail shop. The rich aroma of freshly grounded coffee really drew us in and with the sight of fancy coffee machines and all sorts of fresh coffee beans from all over the world, we knew this was a perfect way to spend a rainy afternoon. Do check out Coffee at Home if you seek coffee perfection!

Though we sat there longer than most customers, the staff didn't mind one bit and continued to pour out fresh cold water for us and were warm, welcoming and friendly. Best 40B or S$1.60 ever for a Latte, Cappuccino etc.

We all felt a bit guilty after eating/drinking so much while not exercising at all this whole day. And I feel a bit embarrassed that this post is beginning to sound like a food blog rather than a cycling blog but since we are on the roll, indulge me on reporting about our excellent dinner once again at Kan Eng Restaurant.

YC had 2 friends, a lovely couple Willy and his wife who rode up from Singapore. Not on bicycles but on their BMW F series motorcycles and they were on their way up to Chiang Mai. We had dinner there with them as there was still so many other dishes we have not tried.

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This was what we ordered and the dishes did not disappoint! Another wonderful dinner at Kan Eng and it was so interesting to hear stories of journeys on motorised two wheels.

Our day of pootling in Hatyai was really fun and we were glad to have spend some time here to see and experience the culinary pleasures the city offered.

Hat Yai is certainly worth 2 or even 3 nights visit and although we could not visit Songkla, that only gives us another reason to plan another trip here in the near future!

SRT Day 3 - Satun to Hatyai. 100km, coast to coast of Southern Thailand.

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Crossing state borders!

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Friendly Thai Policeman who chatted with me at the lights!  Pic KC

Spacious room at Colour Hotel, Hat Yai. 1300B per night only.

This must be one of the most relaxing LTF Adventures ever as today, the serious cycle begins only on Day 3. Not that anyone was complaining, but sometimes, we just have to learn to go with the flow. We asked for an early 7am breakfast and Gleam Resort was very forward thinking, taking our orders the night before. All the others ordered American Breakfast, while Christoph and I settled for Kao Thom or rice porridge.



Somehow, I have always had my doubts about in-house breakfasts as compared to eating outside esp in Thailand where the choice is aplenty. But since it was part of the package and as we needed to start early, we were grateful for this arrangement. Everyone was punctual at the table and we fueled up for the long ride ahead. After loading our bicycles and taking some farewell pics with the staff, we were finally on our way!

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We headed along 406 and the cool morning helped us to spin at a very good pace. We took turns to lead and it was great fun to be on the saddle once again. Starting off fresh, we covered ground pretty quickly. The Bike Fridays were leading the charge with Berenda on her Brompton and we found ourselves having to slow down for the rest to catch up. Riding in a group meant staying together and we took some time to find a pace that was comfortable for all - which was about 22km/h.



After about just over an hour, we made a drink stop at a small town where we were supposed to be just drinking. However, there was a banana pancake stall and we couldn't resist the sweet dessert that went very well with our morning tea.

There were other temptations as well, glutenous rice cakes wrapped in banana leaves but we were still pretty full from breakfast. The friendly locals were no different from Muslim Malaysians culturally as this area used to belong to Malaysia before the British ceded N Malaya to Thailand under the Anglo Siam Treaty of 1909. Thus, they could speak some Bahasa Melayu instead of Thai, a language that I am familiar with.

We jumped on our saddle and pedaled off once again and this time, there was a very slight climbing gradient as well as headwinds. This coupled with the late morning sun meant that we had to work harder on the cranks and we automatically went into drafting positions. This is where our small 16" wheels came into its element as it allowed us to cycle closer to the front bicycle, increasing our efficiency.

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We stopped again after 15km as I felt we needed to replace our fluids and Siew Yung expressed how glad she was that we stopped. We were in no hurry as we had the whole day to cover 100km and the key to touring is to enjoy the journey. The great thing about Thailand is the easy availability of ice cold drinks everywhere and truly, from Satun in the South all the way to Chiang Rai in the North, they are everywhere. On our 3rd phase, the plan was to take an early right turn into Highway 4287 but an even better plan was to tun right even earlier so that we can enjoy quiet country roads that linked up eventually. That was 25km ahead.

It was just about lunch time and our radars were switched on to look out for eateries. For some reason, this being in the thick of the boon docks, we could not find a suitable place to eat. Drinks yes, but no clanging hot wok. So we just continued on feeling weary as the kilometers pass by, wondering if something suitable would pop up. Somehow, nothing! We kept on going with our batteries fading really fast. Discouragement was felt especially in our stomachs but I knew something good will happen. It always does!



We hit the jackpot when YC spotted a Coca Cola signed across the other side of the road. He went over to check it out and yes, there a guy who spoke Chinese ran this eatery and served freshly cooked food! We were so happy and sometimes, the pleasure is greater when we are made to wait a bit longer. And yes, there was a flaming wok as well with fresh eggs!  I ordered fried rice but somehow, it took a long time coming.

Somehow, this place was a favourite for people to phone in advance for takeaways and we ended up waiting quite a bit for our food. Some of us took the opportunity to pump up our tires and to check our bikes.

It was interesting to over hear Siew Yung and Berenda discuss passionately about the type of bike pump they carry and the pros/cons of each. Indeed, newbies these 2 seasoned tourers certainly aren't.

When our food finally came, we gobbled our very late lunch down like we have not eaten for days! Conversations were non existent save for the sound of chomping and clanging utensils. Free unlimited ice water was aplenty and this is always complimentary. I really love this aspect of Thai hospitality! With our bellies full, it was hard to continue but we had a mere 30km to go after this and the kind owner pointed us to a small road saying, this is the way to Hat Yai.

Little did we know that we have actually stumbled upon the quieter side road that we wanted to take and call it co-incidence, good luck or divine blessing (I prefer the last), we were all excited and fired up again. How God leads us on each trip to me personally is very humbling!

This country road we took was absolutely beautiful as we rode with almost zero traffic through small villages and rubber plantations. We could ride 2 abreast with no issue and it was fun just having lively conversations and I enjoyed some BFF moments.

Pic KC

Ying Chang navigated us skillfully through all the back roads and we enjoyed taking sharp corners like we were in a motor GP as we barreled down these roads with vigor and adrenaline with not a car in sight!

The back roads soon led to Highway 4287 and it had been an easy 10km but since we were so well ahead of schedule, we decided to break again as we didn't have our teas/coffees after lunch. We managed to spot a small stall selling fried bananas, fried sweet potatoes as well as fried mushrooms. What was supposed to be a mere coffee stop ending up a feasting stop and we ate in honour of VT and Claudine, who could not make this trip and who love these delicacies!

Turned out that this was the best Cha Ron (hot milk tea) that I've had and one look at the rich, deep and robust color says it all!

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The predication of the weather forecast for rains finally came true and we were all huddled under a bamboo atap hut. The heavens opened and we shifted our bicycles under the shelter of a dress shop that was closed. 

We must have waited for at least an hour and it was tempting to see the many empty Song Thews (passenger pick up trucks) stop at the stall to buy their afternoon tea. We wondered more than once, if we should just hop on all the way for an easy ride to Hat Yai for a a couple of bahts. After all, the wet roads were no fun to ride on and our bikes will be so dirty. But there was no honour in this!

The easing rains made the decision for us and we cracked the whip and got going. We waterproof our gear, put on our lights, and off we went. Riding in the rain was actually quite fun and very cool. Lovely to hear the spinning of wheels sometimes splashing over puddles. For some reason, the team went at break neck speeds and I started falling behind. Strangely, I had trouble keeping awake and this was despite the caffeine laced tea I had.  It was ever so kind of Ying Chang to keep me company and I caught up with the rest when they got stuck at the traffic lights.

Traffic was certainly much much heavier and with some trucks zooming pass us, it was quite unnerving at times. We try to avoid cycling on highways as much as possible but this was something that we could not avoid. 

10km before Hat Yai, we spotted a lovely sign that beckon us to stop and enter. Like bees to honey, we had had to stop to check it out. Here at the restaurant of Pang Mai Resort, though they only served drinks at this time, we could enjoy cold beer and other drinks. The girls managed to get some jelly desserts and that really perked them up.

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The last stretch into Hat Yai was not something I looked forward to as the roads started to clog up with the evening traffic. Hat Yai after all, is Thailand's 3rd largest city after Bangkok and Chiang Mai. 

Fortunately, they have bicycle lanes and that was truly appreciated. Though insignificant to many road users, the blue line defines for us cyclists the difference between a safe zone and the danger zone. At least that's the intention.

But as we entered the city, the blue lines meant nothing! With cars and other vehicles pouring into "our" lane.

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It was once again Chief Navigator Ying Chang's privilege to lead us to our hotel and due to a mistake by Google Maps, we ended up at the impressive railway station after battling the traffic. The rains were coming down as well and that made for a challenge. Fortunately, the Colour Hotel in which we were booked was just round the corner and we finally found it!

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As I was busy checking everyone in, KC noticed a hose at the car park entrance and that was most helpful to give our grimy bicycles a much needed wash. 

I was most touched when KC after washing his bike, continued to supervise the washing of other bikes and actually washed my Bike Friday Tikit! The care and consideration shown daily among the LTF Team truly is what makes our adventures so fun and memorable.

Talk about washing, we had our much needed shower and did our laundry. To our amazement, our clothes from all the road dirt were truly filthy and the laundry water was as brown as Cha Ron. This is the state of the water after the 2nd rinse! After our chores, we all met down at the lobby for dinner.



It so happened that the #2 restaurant in Hat Yai was just a stone's throw away from the Colour Hotel and our meal at Kan Eng Restaurant was the best meal in our entire trip! This was despite the amazing meals we have enjoyed.

The restaurant was packed but we managed to squeeze in a table. An unexpected blackout did not deter the diners and made it o so romantic!



Though we parked and locked our bicycles outside, Siew Yung with her most compact Brompton brought into the restaurant and stealthly parked in under our table. Urban cycling truly is the Brompton's forte!

The meal was unforgettable as we ordered all our favourites! Pork in curry, fried Whitings, Green Curry Chicken, Mixed Vegs, Thai fish cakes, Claypot Tofu, Tom Yam soup and truly, this was a feast to remember.

After dinner we all had a foot massage at the shop next door and boy, was it a real treat. So fun to have all 6 of us lined up having a chat and a laugh while being pampered! At 200B or S$8 per hour, it was such good value and with so many massage shops around, prices are kept low.



The foot massage somehow provided a wee bit more space in our stomachs and we proceeded on for some desserts. The Thai stall was selling all sorts of goodies including Bird's Nest and we enjoyed those.

Pic Berenda

Pic Berenda

We retired happy, feeling very accomplished at the easy 101km we rode from Satun to Hat Yai. Some of the folks could not believe we rode all the way from the East on small wheels. The distance was made short by the excellent company and truly, I am very grateful to each one of my team for another amazing LTF adventure.

Berenda, Siew Yung, KC, Ying Chang and Christoph, my heartfelt thanks for giving me such sweet memories and I hope to ride with you guys again real soon!  Mekong anyone?