1000 Hills Day Two - Up and down to Pai

To be read right to left... (Pic - MK Wheelosopher)

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For some reason, our night at Soppong was freezing and we were glad for our warm beds. The exhausting ride ensured we all slept like babies and we woke up a little later. Meeting at 830am was a bonus that we all needed and appreciated. It was great to see everyone fresh and chirpy when we gathered for breakkie. Instead of having the usual hotel fare, we ventured out to see what the hamlet of Soppong could offer. We were not disappointed especially when we have the sharp nose of foodie Papa Mike. He can smell good food from a mile.

We settled for a small eatery that served pots of freshly cooked Thai curries and specialities that was absolutely delectable. With hot steaming rice, this could very well be a full meal. But then again, the idea of a good breakfast in Thailand is pretty much the same for lunch and for dinner too!

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I was wondering where Papa disappeared to in the middle of our meal, and trust him to hunt for more food to augment the feast. He came back with delicious pork satays with sticky rice!

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We could not possibly set off immediately after such a humongous breakfast! One of the secrets in Little Eden is its must do nature trail just across the beautiful river. It is accessed by a lovely wooden suspension bridge that swayed left and right, making it great fun just crossing it. Filling our lungs with fresh morning air purified by the green trees of the forest, we were all very much alive.

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The trail takes 50 mins to loop but unfortunately, we had to turn back after 15 mins as we had to press on to Pai 45km away. It was already past 10am and Little Eden deserves a 2nd night to fully appreciate its lush and beautiful surroundings.

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It took us no time to meet once again at the lobby of Little Eden with our bikes all saddled up and ready to go. The terrain was very easy today. One long 15km climb and then all the way down to Pai, at least thats what our charts said. Once again, we got the hotel transport to send Papa to the peak with all our panniers as he has a knee injury. The plan was then we would ride down together. We said our goodbyes to Ms Phen, promising that we shall be back,  and rode our eager steeds East in the cool mid morning breeze.

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The first 6-7km was very gradual and then the serious climbing began. We all had to peel our layers off as our legs reported for work. But compared to the Wall at Mae Hong Son, it was "flattish" in comparison. I found myself feeling stronger and could manage the most without pushing. Soon, we saw Papa zooming past in a grey pick up waving away and compared to yesterday, I did not envy him as I was really enjoying the changing scenery before me. 

That said, the hills threw in some nasties and we just did our best and rode, or pushed at our pace. We really were in no hurry as we had the whole day to get to Pai.

Most times, KC was way in front but we always stopped to regroup regularly to make sure there aren't any lost sheep. Through all these sufferings, we bonded closer as a team as we took turns to encourage each other and shared our energy rations with one another. I think that is what makes touring together so special.

Before we knew it, we were on top the summit and both KC and I had a friendly race and crossed the finish line together. We were wondering where our Chief Pannier Officer was and found him relaxing under some shade with all our colorful bags. But poor him got eaten alive by pesky sandflies! This is a really popular stop and the government has taken great pains to make it attractive with nicely manicured gardens, picnic tables, viewing gallery, shops, toilets and ample parking. 

Understandably, the Hilltribe people were also there to offer delicious grilled sweet potatoes as well as photo opportunities with their colorfully dressed cutie kids, for a fee.

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We hung around for an hour or so to recover from the morning climb and had to force ourselves back on the saddle as we were all so rested and ready for a snooze. Fortunately, we were right at the top and the only way was down, sweet sweet down. 

I felt like parachuters jumping off the plane as I descended and the acceleration to 40-50km/h woke me up instantly. We had fantastic fun and we were even faster than a van especially around the many hairpins. Our brakes worked overtime and my hands were getting pretty numbed from squeezing the brakes constantly.

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It has to be said that the fastest downhill rider of all my adventure trips has always been Papa Mike as gravity favors him. I unfortunately do not get this privilege. But when we stopped to regroup several times, my champion was nowhere to be seen and that got us really worried. It was really nice of Pete and Jan to wait for him patiently. It is the Aussie way never to leave behind your mate. Suddenly, they saw the good Dr grinning and waving by, at the back of a speeding pick up truck! And we later got a call from him that he had 2 rear punctures on his Dahon Speed TR due to a faulty rim tape, and to meet in town.

The rest of us then rode together into Pai, and was astounded at how busy it has become. It is known as the Switzerland of Thailand as its in a valley among beautiful mountain ranges. Pai not so long ago attracted those who were looking for an "alternate" lifestyle - read sex, drugs and rock & roll, not necessary in that order. Now it has mature to become a fashionable hangout for wealthy Bangkok yuppies especially on the weekends. It still has its charm especially off the main tourist drag and I was glad we had 2 nights here to soak in its offerings.

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Our hotel was the classy Baan Pai Riverside Resort and this was booked 5 months ago by our Perth friends who stayed here. It is a very charming and rustic place that instantly brought big nods of approval from the team. We were all given quaint wooden bungalows but with all the modern conveniences, set in lush green bamboo surroundings. While the team were all busy checking in, I went out to rescue Papa who was wandering the streets of Pai with a flat tire. 

We celebrated our arrival in Pai after a nice shower and obligatory laundry with lovely drinks at the bar.  As always, it was great fun reflecting upon the short but demanding ride from Soppong and I cannot help but be amazed that our little wheels can transport us with such big fun.

We were spoilt for choice when it came to dinner but decided for Charlie and Lek thanks to the WhatsApp instant recommendation of Chris Wee, our Thai guru based in Spore. It served delicious Thai food cooked by Mrs Lek and has been around for ages. 

  

We walked the busy streets of Pai after dinner and this being a Saturday, it was packed with vendors and tourists. Under the cool winter's night, it was a most pleasant experience. I then saw some hot air lanterns in the sky and suggested we sent one up in the air. That was met with great squealing and excitement from the team. We looked for an appropriate place to launch our spacecraft like school children and found a deserted school field. Before lighting the wick, we scribbled our messages, then launched it. It was fun seeing our lighted lantern lift up into the darkness of the night effortlessly. We waited till it disappeared from sight, feeling satisfied that it had reached the heavens with our messages of thanksgiving.

We spend the rest of the evening sampling the offerings of the night market, shopped for light weight souvenirs and managed to enjoy a well deserved Thai traditional massage. That stretched and cracked every joint in our body, and got me well prepared for bed. But not before downing a most amazingly delicious burger...

It's so good to be in Pai again!