Friday, May 2, 2014

The Cycle of Life








I was invited to give a talk to about 60 men at a Men's Breakfast meeting this morning on Bicycle Touring at Willetton, Western Australia. Thought I like to share that here on LTF as it somewhat captures my joy and passion. Don Buchanan, a 70 year old tourer, went before me and he was inspirational. He shared about his amazing trip from Land's End to John O'Groats in England, and also his trip to Yunnan China.

It's a long journey from one end of England to the other and here's proof in a map...

Here is my take, I hope it inspires you to get on your bike and tour...

Ped Al

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Gd morning! Thank you for giving me this opportunity to share with you about my passion on bicycle touring. The title of my sharing this morning is The Cycle of Life, Touring in Asia. Don’t worry as I’m not going to talk about re-incarnation or some Zen concepts. I want to share with you my passion for bicycle touring with reference to Asia, and how it has shape my outlook and values of life.

I somehow feel that today’s gathering is a bit special as we are like the League of Extraordinary Gentlemen. In all of us, there is a yearning for a mission and an adventure.

“Deep in his heart, every man longs for a battle to fight, an adventure to live, and a beauty to rescue.”  John Eldredge – Wild at Heart

There are many things you can do to achieve a purpose or a battle to fight, to achieve adventure and sometimes, even a beauty to rescue, hopefully its your wife or daughter. But bicycle touring ticks all these boxes and more. I tell my friends I live for 2 Gospels – and Gospels simply mean good news. It is my privilege of course to share with you the good news that God loves you very much and desires for us to come to him. It is God that gives us the ability to enjoy the cycle of life each brand new day.

The other gospel I want to share with you is that cycling is good for you as its health benefits are incredible. God has made our bodies to be active and medical research has shown that exercise, even moderate exercise has immense benefits in weight loss, lowering blood pressure, cholesterol and stress, improving fitness, keeping us alert & even giving us good sleep. One side effect is also it keeps you looking incredibly young and happy – many of my cycling friends for example are like me. Im 52, and Pete over there is a youthful 60. Although some of us may have lost most of our silver hair, we can still look good with a fancy helmet!

Legs of 70yo Don Buchanan

But what I shared with you seriously won’t get you on your bike as it’s like our Moms telling us to eat our veggies. I mean how convincing can it be to hear that we need to eat 3 servings of fruit and veggies daily. But the real deal begins when we start touring on bicycles, not just cycle leisurely around the rivers, or to the shops or to work. Our Bro shared about his amazing trip just now and Im sure we were all in awe and slightly jealous.

Personally, I started touring 8 years ago and do about 3-4 trips per year all around Asia. Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Taiwan, Malaysia, Indonesia and I shall be popping into Burma briefly as we tour South Thailand in August and possibly Japan in November. If you are keen to read about my travels, I have a blog called Lovethefold, which captures my trips on folding bicycles through volcanoes, rice fields, mountain tops, tropical islands and ancient sites.


We are talking here about adventure, freedom, journeying and escaping - escaping to a world that is far simpler. A simple world that revolves around a rhythm of riding, eating, exploring, washing, sleeping and awakening to do the same, only to experience a totally brand new day as you embark on another day of adventure.

These words from a touring blog – The Human Cyclist captures the essence of touring. 

You leave the metropolis behind and upon escaping its shadow, the land is greener, the sky bluer, the vistas bigger. Smooth winding roads await. The sun inches up into the sky and the road stretches out before you like a river meandering mile upon mile to the sea, the day so long it feels like a season, your journey more important than the destination.



“I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.”  Robert Louis Stevenson

The journey is not so much going from Pt A to Pt B, but A to Z with a thousand different combinations. Each day in itself is so different and special from one another, as there are so many uncontrolled variables that play to form a rich tapestry of unique experiences. What is the weather going to be like? Will my bike be able to take the punishment when the road turns nasty? Am I going to encounter nice drivers or that lone crazy one? Who are the people I am going to meet? When I get hungry or thirsty, what options are available for me? Will my health hold up after subjecting my tired body to the mercy of the elements? And when you complete that journey intact after savouring all the rich experience of being outdoors in an exotic land, there is a certain sense of accomplishment that money cannot buy.


Unlike daily life in the city where we seem to have it all under control, touring forces us to realize how unpredictable life actually is, and that we don’t have everything under control. On our recent ride to Taiwan, we had 4 riders fall off their bikes on a steep descent down a mountain road. A storm had come unexpectedly and the winding road was slippery. They were all newbies. Amazingly, everyone had very minor injuries including a lady who hit her head hard on the ground and cracked her helmet. They all could still continue riding on in the highest spirits. One rider had one brake failure going down another mountain pass through fog and storm, but got down safely. A police car was fortunately behind us and was flashing his lights blocking traffic from the rear!  Also, my wife had a puncture when we arrived in Taipei City. I was glad it was there and not flying down high speed at 40-50km/h down the Tarako Mountain pass in tight formation.


There was also an incident in an Indonesian island when a storm forced us to take the later ferry. If we were on the earlier one, we would be tossed around like a match-box in the sea. These are some of the many “lucky” or “fortunate” co-incidences we encountered but when a string of co-incidences keep occurring, our journey starts to take on a spiritual dimension regardless of what we believe in.

We are compelled to conclude that someone up there, is watching out for us. Interested in us somehow. That “The Force” in Star Wars lingo, is indeed with us and that we are spiritual beings that yearn to be connected with our Creator. The familiar phrase “God loves you!” begins to be experienced fully and not preached. The co-incidences then start to become God-incidences. Our eyes for things spiritually start to see some light…

3 of my friends who are not church go-ers, remarked in their facebook postings…

R Lee, a retired Naval Missile Gunboat Commander - Looking back at the trip, it was a good blessing no one got injured despite the numerous falls and brake failures. Thank God.

J Lee, a designer and film producer, who took a stunning picture of us cycling through the mountains with the clearest blue skies wrote - Thks for laying the blue sky for us. You are great!

S Ling, an accountant – I count our blessings every single day!

You have heard Don share about his amazing tour in England from one end to the other, and in China. So why tour Asia? Yes, it’s relatively nearer to us so that means cheaper airfares. But allow me to offer 5 reasons…

1.  Value for $. While a simple meal here in Perth is about $10-15, a plate of Pad Thai noodles cost A$2. Hotels here average $150-200, we have stayed at $12 per night in a B&B in Takeo, Cambodia, including a delicious 5 course dinner and breakfast. I tour on a budget of A$30 per day comfortably, including food and board + drinks. It is actually cheaper to tour Asia than to stay in WA! A$1000 per month is plenty.

2. A rich culture & long history. Here in Australia, our history spans only perhaps 200 years at most but in Asia, civilizations have existed for thousands of years. It is magic to cycle through the ruins of Angkor Wat in Siem Reap Cambodia, sleep beside a B52 bomb crater, walk inside ancient temples glittered with gold, or castles that are 600 years old. Up in Mae Salong Thailand, I met with the son of a Kuomingtang General who now runs a guesthouse.


3. Amazing people. As a cyclist in Asia, you are not seen as a rich loud tourist. You are strangely accepted and its easy for the locals to open up to you. Although there are some weirdos and baddies, as a whole Asia has many friendly people. I once stopped to catch my breath in Laos in a small drink stall, and a young girl selling oranges came up to give me one from the kindness of her heart. And if you have white hair, seniors automatically get respect especially in the country. The locals in the country find it a novelty to take a picture with you, and friendly kids just line up to give you Hi-5s in Laos as you cycle pass them. There are people who invite you for meals and to sleep in their homes for free even! Marriage proposals too.



4. Food to die for. What can I say? If you think the food at the Asian restaurants here are good, you ain’t taste nothing yet. Fresh flavors from exotic spices, curries, noodles, rice, veggies, fruit including Durians and Mangosteens, rich broths and even eating fried insects and spiders. With an open mind and curious palate, you are in for a treat. Pete who has travelled with me through Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand enjoyed the food so much that he says how can he go back to Vegemite and Toast?


5. Photography. Your camera will be so happy in Asia. So much to shoot! Mountainous landscapes, fast flowing rivers, amazing flower and fauna, animals, people, clouds, the sea, golden sunrise and sunsets, the road per se. I have researchers asking me permission to use some of my pics in my Lovethefold blog for their work in anthropology. One of my them is this pic capturing elephants bathing by the waterfalls in the morning in Laos.



So how do you start?

1. Join a bike tour. There are many tours that offer fully supported bicycle programs. They are a good starting point as everything is planned for you. Once you have some experience, you can start doing it yourself.

2. Bicycle. You don’t need a hi-end bicycle for touring but it must be reliable, able to carry panniers and has climbing gears (which usually mean triple cranks). I use folding bicycles because they offer the advantage of easy transportation and ability to hop on buses, trains and boats easily. Safety too as can be kept in hotel room.

3. Equipment. Helmet, Ortlieb panniers, gloves, 2 water bottles, spare tube, tools, pump, riding clothes, gloves, 200w lights etc

Allow me to introduce to you my touring buddy Pete Roscoe. He has just retired after spending 40 years at Western Power. Pete has lost 10kg since picking up cycling 2 years ago and has just recently had a quadrable bypass heart surgery.


Please help me welcome Pete, as well as Rod Withers and Ian Howard...

1.  How long have you been touring and where have you toured?
2.  What are 3 highlights for you? (food, fellowship, kindness, achievement, fun)
3.  Do you need to be exceptionally fit to tour? (no but reasonable fitness needed)



Conclusion

Let me conclude by saying that touring on a bicycle is very much like our cycle of life here on earth. The cycle of life I’m referring to is to understand which season we are in – just like we are now in Autumn, and approaching Winter of our life’s journey.

We need fortitude to overcome challenges, we need to keep moving, we need to take risks in life, but most importantly is that we need to know where we are heading. There is no shame in seeking help when we have lost our way, or when we are confused or find ourselves groping in the dark. The good news is that we don’t tour alone in our adventure of life as God is there for us. After all, Jesus said in John 14:6 “I am the way, the truth and the life!”


Life is short and when the end comes, our maker will probably ask us where did we visit in our 70-80 years? If we say Perth to Albany or Geraldton only, He will probably reprimand us with, “I’ve given you the whole world to explore in your whole life time. You’ve only been around WA?”

So Gentlemen, get on your bikes and explore the world. The adventure awaits! Do so with the blessing and guidance of God.



Thursday, April 24, 2014

Spring Ride in Taiwan Day 1 - Taipei to Jiaoxi 80km













Note bike friendly flag!






The breakfast at Rido Hotel was awesome offering a good spread of Western as well as traditional Taiwanese porridge. We gobbled them down heartily at 0730 as we really needed to fuel up for the long ride ahead of us to Jiaoxi (calling it Chelsea helps me). Ying Chang had warned us of 2 serious climbs and that got some of us really worried especially the newbies among us. Despite climbing the walls of Mae Hong Son in N Thailand just in Jan, I must confess that I had some butterflies in my stomach too.


We met up at 830am outside the hotel and rode to the National Taiwan University to meet up Joeel and Esther. Riding through the quiet Sunday streets of Taipei fully loaded in the cool morning air, I just felt so elated and happy cycling with this bunch of merry folks. We were like excited school kids going on a very interesting excursion, except this one entails one very long and hard ride. They say in life, its always better to get the difficult bits done at the start, so you can enjoy the rest and I cannot agree more.


NTU was established in 1928 when Taiwan was under Japanese colonial rule and boasts of some very classic architecture. We gathered at the main gate where the stylish Lees were waiting for us. Ying Chang took this opportunity to give us a briefing and we shot a group pic. It has to be said that I have never met a more friendly security guard who pointed us to the best photo location. This country is so bike friendly!



We stopped at 7-11 to stock up for climb #1 but not before enjoying 15km of Taipei's excellent bike paths that skirted the river. It was wonderful to see the local residents play and live along the river, some cycling, some walking with their dogs, jogging and just having a great time. This together with perfect weather with just a spot of sunshine really made for a great start to our adventure.


Soon, we exited the bike paths and joined Beiyi Road or Highway 9. This route is famous for roadies  as well as high powered motorcycles & maxiscooters due to many incredible hairpins.  It being a Sunday, what was supposed to be a quiet ride became like a Grand Prix with highly modified superbikes with deafening exhausts overtaking us like we were standing still. It can be quite unnerving for some of the newbies but after a while, we got used to them. It's strange to say this but though they were fast, they seem surprisingly considerate. It was amusing to see photographers waiting at each bend, snapping away action shots of steeply leaned machines.


When the first climb began, the team started to fall into a natural grouping. Those who trained hard or are old birds in the game, went in front leaving others to follow at their own ability. It's good to know that this once again is not a race and climbs are best done at your own pace, especially long climbs. Our gathering point was a large tea pot in a spacious park that we were told was 12km or so. However, that came at just under 9km and if YC was using psychological techniques to get us up, it certainly was working very well.


Celia, Carolen and I continued on to Helen's Cafe, a very famous coffee place to wait out for the rest. This proved to be a real gem as it offered splendid views on a huge verandah, served very good hot brews and had a cuddly dog. Very appropriate considering the chilly winds up there. 


There were many cyclists taking breaks there too and our small wheeled foldies drew a lot of curious attention. A Taiwanese family got chatting with us and their daughter was an English teacher. They wanted to know where we were from and where we were going. Such friendly folks indeed.


When the last ones finally came up, we welcomed them and cheered for them. Pru who was doing this for the first time was understandably unnerved but the constant encouragement and support from dutiful Ben got her up. Legend Mike who was acting as sweeper followed diligently behind them until Ben told him to take off, as he "had a (marriage) contract" while Mike didn't. With hot piping Latte and chocolate pancakes flowing, everyone's energy got restored nicely. It was hard to leave Helen's but we had to as it was already way pass noon. Fortunately, we enjoyed some lovely descends and that was exhilarating. We stopped at a small town for a simple lunch. It was mostly veggies unfortunately. Time check - 330pm!


Climb #2 began all too soon and though it was gradual at first, it was unrelenting. At this stage, we were all wondering if we should have packed lighter. Perhaps break off the toothbrush handle into half and travelled with less clothes. I had about 13kgs on me as I was on "mule" duty for my beloved and even my faithful Expedition was creaking.  If that was not enough, it started to rain and that meant climbing in hot and sweaty raincoats. Visibility started to get bad and it was getting cold. The fun definitely faded away like the sun. Our cameras too had to be kept which explains the lack of pics on the 2nd climb.

By the time we reached the summit, it was nearly dark and the rains and winds were howling incessantly. We huddled together and took shelter of all places - the public lavatories, together with some other desperate folks. This had some semblance of the smelly tofu we had last night. Though tired, wet and miserable, our spirits were still quite high especially Siew Ling.



The group graciously wanted to wait for each other and regroup before taking on the final descend together. However, a local cleaner advised us to go asap as light was fading quickly. Reluctantly, we broke into several groups with Oreo leading the first 15km downhill charge to Jiaoxi.

I was relieved to see Papa bravely soldiering on at the rear despite a knee problem. This is one extremely determined old dog whose fortitude is second to none. It was my turn to brave the howling rains and I took my time to descend safely. It was pitch dark by then and I was glad I had my Moon 400W headlight that lighted the path. I was also glad for my Da Brim visor which kept the rain from pelting my eyes. Cil and I eventually got down to the intersection safely and we thank God for His protection.

God's protection was even more apparent over Roland's group, who was behind me.  His wife May's Dahon TR had one brake that malfunctioned unexpectedly. Needless to say, this was harrowing considering the steepness and length of the descent. It was a good thing hero Roland was with her. 

Roland described her Fred Flintstone encounter, "Alvin, her brakes were nearly bared for both. She charged into me, two bikes were together while I controlled and braked to slow down both bikes before she stopped her bike with the foot. She was shaken and refused to ride further. Calmed her, swap the bike for her to go down. A frightening experience for both!"

I later learnt that YC who sensed trouble, rode uphill to find them and they all descended safely together.

What was even more incredible were flashing lights of red and blue that stayed at their back all the way down. Most amazingly, a police car was making sure that traffic was held back so that Roland's group could descend safely under such treacherous conditions. One of our riders too got separated from the group, and sought help from the Police. They were willing to take her to the hotel! I was speechless. We later wrote to the Taiwan Police to commend them for their very kindness and consideration, proving to me once again, that Taiwan is indeed tops when it comes to supporting cyclists.



Kudos to YC and Legend Mike for taking up the rear to make sure everyone came down safely. Such was the care and concern shown in this team that made for amazing camaraderie. Esther remarked "Yes, thanks to Ying Chang C who fall back for us the slower riders and Michael Khor for sweeping us with your bright light! We are truly blessed to have you guiding us through the cold rainy night!"

We all gathered at the intersection and rode the last 4km leg to Jiaoxi DuoAi Hotel (means "more love hotel"). It was so good to see YC wife, Doreen greeting us ever so warmly at the lobby and giving us our room keys. We were cold and soaking wet but what caught us by surprise is the natural hot spring waters that flowed into the spacious spa in our room. Cil went in and didn't want to come out and I don't blame her. It was so good to soak our tired bodies in rich, hot mineral waters! Our room had 2 floors while Papa's even had a swing. This was after all, a hotel for honeymooners.


Dinner was at a Taiwanese open kitchen eatery and we ordered literally everything. We were grateful for Roland's expertise in Taiwanese food. The great thing about touring is that we can eat without guilt and eat we did.


It has been one adventure filled day and Pru was remarking that if she quitted now, she had no regrets as she had experienced everything a tour could throw at her - steep climbs, fast descents, riding in storm, in total darkness, many close shaves by speeding motorcyclists etc. A full touring adventure all crammed into one day! 


At our nightly debrief, it was remarkable that everyone was still bouncing with adrenaline. Our folks could still clown around despite being on the saddle for the whole day through rain and shine. And these were not exactly teenagers! 


Trust YC to engineer such an action pack first day of touring. What will tomorrow hold? It goes without saying that all of us slept very well that night, very well indeed in Chelsea. 


Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Spring Ride in Taiwan - Introduction





Team 1 - first breakfast in Taipei!


Ever since I did my first ride in Taiwan up Wulin in 2012, I made a promise to return again some day soon after experiencing what I think is perhaps the best country in the planet to cycle. This opportunity presented itself late last year when Ying Chang, my faithful touring buddy, who was planning to be in Taiwan for the Qing Ming festival in late March/early April, sounded the idea out. It was not difficult to fill the team as Ying Chang hails from Taiwan and is so well loved among all our friends. Turned out we had 16 folks when all the dust was settled.

The plan is to do a Spring bike tour of the East Coast of Taiwan, riding out from Taipei, to Jiaoxi, do a loop via Fulong and Jui Fen. We ride out of Jiaoxi to Yilan where we train to the beautiful coastal city of Hualien. One highlight is to do part of the incredible Taroko Gorge, where we shall lunch at a magnificent waterfall at Baiyang Trail just a whisker up from Tiensiang. Then, it will be our longest day - 110km to Yuli where we stay in a hot springs resort. Following that, an easy ride to Chishang which has amazing rice fields all around. Our last ride to Taitung, home of the world's best custard apples is an easy 50+km. We return by a 6 hr train to Taipei on a special bicycle carriage.


We were all very excited and I could not wait for Apr 6 to arrive. Mike "Hard" Khor, the Legend from KL, in fact went 2 weeks earlier to do his own cyclo tour and exploration. He brought along his own tent and cooking equipment on his trusty Surly LHT and had fun camping in parks and sleeping in churches and temples.


Though we admired his spirit, we were quite disheartened as poor him faced really wet and cold weather. Spring in Taiwan is really unpredicatable. Would we face similar conditions?


A pre-trip evening was planned in late March at Ying Chang's home to have a get together and dinner. It was great to meet everyone old and new. It also meant that our long wait was finally over, and hearing the plans only wetted our appetite for adventure to no end.


That also meant some last minute hill training in Singapore and we managed to put in at least 3. Compared that to Carolen from Perth who had trained really hard covering over 2000km, we felt really inadequate.

With my Bike Fridays packed snugly in 2 Samsonites, together with my Orb panniers carefully and thoughtfully filled, we made our way to Changi Airport on Sat Apr 5 and landed at Taoyuan International Airport. We were the last team to touch down for the day. We took the sky train to T1 where we met up with Oreo and CK. Poor CK's Dahon TR did not arrive with him from Kuala Lumpur and sometimes despite all the planning, things can still go wrong. But it did not dampen his spirit and trusted the problem into the good hands of MAS who came through later in the evening.

Our chartered van whisked us to Ying Chang's home where we assembled our bikes in the park and that provided for on street entertainment for the locals. Once that was done, we checked into the lovely bike friendly Rido Hotel for the night.


It was so nice to meet everyone in Taipei finally! We cycled to the Night Markets for dinner for street food. Some of us had our first introduction to smelly Tofu. Though we were tired, we retired excited and happy knowing that somehow, the week ahead will touch our hearts forever.