Pic KC
Pic KC
Pic KC
We all woke up nice and early, feeling fresh. This was to be our last official day of riding as we head towards Chumphon. I was excited as we would be riding past the famous Isthmus of Kra, the narrowest part of Thailand.
Our host at Pannika Resort insisted on taking us out to the markets for breakfast and so all 8 of us rode into town. Kraburi's morning market was bustling with activity as people come to buy and sell all types of produce - vegetables, chickens, fish, spices etc. The local bus station is located there too so despite being a small town, this was one busy part.
Pic KC
Pic KC
As we rode out of town, we came across 2 new guesthouses and this is perhaps a promising sign of better things to come for Kraburi. Jan Houtermans of Crazyguyonabike fame remarked that only cyclists stay in Kraburi but we reckon there's enough to keep busy here for a day. It was a beautiful cool morning as we set off and it was nice to be spinning again on our bikes with so much greenery surrounding us. It is said that we get stronger as the tour continues and this being our last day after a week of cycling, I felt the strongest.
Hence it was quite a surprise that we arrived at the Isthmus of Kra, some 14km in no time. Plans to cut a shipping canal across this narrow 50km stretch of Thailand has been mooted since the 16th century. The appeal is understandable as it will bypass the Straits of Malacca, allowing shipping to sail from the Andaman Sea to the Gulf of Thailand and onwards to China, Japan etc. A lighthouse style building has been constructed at this site to fan the dream but this is not an easy task and will cost serious money.
Pic KC
It was hard to leave this very beautiful and historical point but we were strangely getting hungry. Khun Nok from Ranong the day before told us about an excellent morning tea stop where we could enjoy piping hot steamed buns, and to go to the last shop on the right. As we pedalled for only about half an hour, rows and rows of stalls selling steamed buns suddenly appeared on both sides of the highway.
How does one choose where to buy given that everyone sells somewhat the same stuff? Many creative stallholders used good old fashion marketing - attractively dressed and heavily made up maidens! It was interesting to cycle pass such colourful temptations waving and flirting with us, which made us wonder if buns are really all that was for sale! However, our priority was to stay on the straight and narrow and when we finally arrived to the last stall, we were richly rewarded.
Pic KC
Pic KC
Not only were there the fame steamed buns, we had stumbled upon the iconic famous Kra Chicken Rice. There was a mini traffic jam with many luxurious cars illegally parked along the road. Fortunately on our bicycles, parking is never a problem and we were soon gobbling on hot meaty buns and enjoying tasty chicken rice.
Highway 4 then started to veer east inland and this was when the going got a bit tough. It was a hot slog with temperatures hovering around 37c and with some hills thrown in as though to purposedly remind us that perhaps, the smarter way to go was to have taken the public bus like a famed tourer. But it was too late and we pressed on, baked slowly and surely by the searing sun. How we miss the delightful rains!
Riding long distances through the heat took its toll and we were all getting separated. Hence, we took stops every 20km. KC and I were leading the pack as we preferred to ride fast despite the heat as the breeze at 25km/h helped cool us down and we wanted to get this over quick. Others kept cool by riding a bit slower and that worked too. While waiting for the rest on one of the stops, a bunch of locals got around my Bike Friday in curious admiration and it was quite entertaining trying to answer Thai questions with sign language.
Pic KC
Desperate to beat the heat, YC suggested we try a different route through minor roads with the hope that it had more shade. Always ready for adventure, our team said, "Yes!" This proved a welcome change as we had to ride off-road and tackle some very steep climbs. I hope we didn't disturb the locals too much as having a bunch of noisy, laughing cyclists in colourful garb on small wheels is something they don't often see on their very quiet roads.
Pic KC
After our little off road excursion, riding on the highway all of a sudden felt so much easier. Perspective is sometimes needed for us to see life's situation objectively and that was our spiritual lesson for that day which we will never forget. We were extremely motivated as we pedalled along Highway 4 and counting down the distance before reaching Chumphon.
Pic KC
Just before entering the town, we stopped once again to regroup and this time at a brand new townhall that provided much needed respite from the heat. By this time, I was thoroughly cooked and if I was a steak, I would have been very well done. We watered ourselves and rested properly before heading off as heat stroke is the last thing we wanted as we rode to the finish line together.
Entering Chumphon, we felt like champions. Everyone was in the highest spirit and we rode into town literally with blazing saddles like the Magnificent 7, all dusty and dirty but with great pride. Our steel horses proved reliable (with only one puncture) and have taken us through nearly 500km in the wettest of wet and scorching sun.
Our first goal was to check into a hotel. We had booked into the Chumphon Gardens, a traditional hotel that has been there since the 1970s. Checking it out, it was cheap but not too cheerful as spacious as it was, the rooms, facilities as well as service seemed stuck in an era that has gone by.
Forgoing this was the smartest move ever as just around the corner was the very stylish modern art deco A-Te Hotel. Double the price but 10 times the ambience. A quick tour of the luxurious rooms and ample facilties by the friendly staff got us hooked and checked in. After a quick lunch at a very nice Chinese restaurant, we were soon frolicking in the inviting swimming pool.
Pic KC
Though the ride was officially over, it was the beginning of our beach holiday. Our plan was to spend 2 nights in Ko Tao, a lovely island just off the coast and then train back 600km to Penang, Malaysia. Problem was that it was the Queen's Birthday and the whole of Thailand had descended upon Ko Tao, leaving us with very little hope of any accomodation.
Fortunately, a quick call to my Thai friend Prim in Bangkok for help got us 3 beautiful rooms. One of her ex-staff had moved there and could help us! If that was not a clear sign of God's great love and providence for us, I was even more amazed to learn that we got the last 7 overnight sleeper cabins to Penang when I booked the tickets.
As we slumbered into our comfortable beds that night, I had a great sense of thanksgiving because our South Thailand Adventure turned out so amazingly. The privilege to ride through some incredible scenery, ate great food, experience historical and signinficant icons, visit Burma and most of all, to ride with the nicest bunch of cyclists ever really put a big smile on my face.
Thank you so much Ying Chang, KC, Pete, Jan, George and Wendy for being the best team ever!
Which only begs the question, Chumphon to Bangkok anyone?
Ko Tao sunset
And this same God who takes care of me will supply all your needs from his glorious riches, which have been given to us in Christ Jesus. Phil 4:19 NLT
1 comment:
Loving the bike adventures! Hope to visit your place on a bike soon.
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