Spinning past 50 on small wheels - Day 3, Walpole

Hanging on the wall of our room at the Blue Wren YHA. Words of wisdom from the Dalai Lama lamenting on the state of modern affairs. So what really matters in life? A millionaire cosmetic surgeon who died Oct 18, (the day this trip was done) echoed these thoughts, and has this to say. Riveting!

My first day as a 50 year old was not promising. Graham the YHA manager warned us that the 65km to Walpole was somewhat hilly and that took the wind out of our sails. I encouraged myself that it cannot be worse than my 3275m climb to Wulin 7 months ago in Taiwan but when a seasoned MTB says it, it is disconcerting.

We packed our panniers, loaded the bikes and said goodbye to Graham and his wonderful Labrador, Flint. First stop was breakfast and we found a lovely cafe, opened at 745am. As per our style, we ordered 3 big breakfast and shared among 4. It was good but Cosi yesterday was somewhat better. Attractive service is a big plus I guess.

Getting out of Denmark, we grudgingly pushed our loaded bikes up the hill towards Walpole to warm up and to prevent us from throwing up. They say we get strongest on the 3rd day of riding so we hoped that's true. It was not a good start as indeed, the hills came early. What didn't help too was the cycling lane disappeared 3km out of town and while waiting for the rest, a Magpie did a dive bomb on me. Fortunately, it narrowly missed me. I now remembered why my friend Patrick Khaw had "antennas" coming out of his helmet.

It was obvious that this was going to be a hard slog but the promise of honey ice cream at the 16km mark kept us going. The lady running the Bee Farm came out excitedly to check out our small wheels. She herself is a cyclist and has not seen foldies touring this region yet. We ordered the largest scoop of 3 flavours to share and it was heavenly.

Moving on, we enjoyed the long downhills while it lasted and struggled painfully up those long climbs. Kenneth was very kind to take over 70yo Ken's pannier so that it was slightly easier for him. They say its through hardships that friendships are forged and that is so true. With half his load gone, Ken found his second wind and we were glad.

The group was now very spread out as the hills separated the men from the boys so to speak. One way to make things a bit more comfortable and even was bike swapping. We put Ken on Rod's 700c hybrid most times and that gave him the best mechanical advantage. The trick to conquering rolling hills is to ride down at maximum speed and use the momentum to bring you up.

That's the theory anyway but often, I found momentum can only bring up so much and then, its back to grinding the crank labourishly. I can see the need for an e-bike to assist us oldies up those climbs in my future tours. At 50, we are technically senior citizens in some countries so we are entitled to some "assistance".

This stretch was particularly scarce for drink/food stops and the next one was at the 45km mark at Bowbridge. 30km does not seem like much but with killer hills, it felt like 90km. It was heartwarming to spot 2 fully loaded touring bikes coming in the opposite direction and that lifted our spirits. I quickly whipped up my Ixus to shoot them and we waved to each other like school kids.

We were so relieved when we arrived at the Bowbridge Roadhouse where we refuelled on pies and sandwiches. The kitchen was closed so we could not have a hot meal. However another 10km further at Nornalup, Graham told us about tea rooms which had tea and scones and we saved our stomachs for that. While taking a break, it started to rain and we used that as an excuse for an extended rest. It was fun seeing all sorts of vehicles from motorbikes, cars with boats, campervans all pulled up for a break. This is home to the Tree Top Walk in the Valley of the Giants but since we all have been there, we pressed on.

Arriving at Nornalup, we could not find the Tea Room. Riding around the small town led us to a beautiful river side where we saw a man fishing, enjoying himself. He said the young couple who ran the famous Tea Room closed down a few weeks back and it was a shame as they served really top quality food. Our stomachs were so disappointed at hearing this news!

Looking at the weariness written all over our faces, he encouraged us by saying one more big hill to Walpole, and we are done. Only another 10km to go. Also, he told us the best places to eat in Walpole and that was the type of news we wanted to hear and got us springing. 

The 10km to Walpole went by quickly despite there having more than one big hill. There were long downhill stretches that we got us really flying. It took us 45 mins to do the distance and when we arrived at Walpole, our first order of the day was to eat. We found of all places, a Philippine restaurant which sold pretty nice Asian food and we enjoyed that very much. Rod celebrated with a calorie laden sweet milkshake.

The YHA Walpole was the first building to greet us when we entered and it was very well run by a mid age lady, Peggy who struck me as being a most organised person. The buildings were old and could very well be like being transported in the 1960s but it was clean and functional. The kitchen especially was so well kept we could eat off the floors so kudos to Peggy! It also had a very spacious lounge area and free internet.

Ken was to catch the 430pm bus to Albany to collect his SUV which was parked at his cousin's home. Trust Rod to tag along as it was better for Ken not to be driving alone in the dark back to Walpole. It helped that being Senior Citizens, the usual fare of $25 was only $10.

The reward of his thoughtfulness was being able to join in for a nice home cook freshly baked Quiche, which made Kenneth and I so jealous. Nevertheless, we had a nice dinner too and Kenneth kindly gave me a birthday treat. We enjoyed speaking to the waitress who was on a working holiday visa from Albania. Trust Kenneth to chat up the girls!

At 930pm, Ken and Rod returned beaming. What took us 2 days to ride, took him 2 hrs on his turbo diesel SUV. Our ride has ended. We have done 200km all in and enjoyed ourselve immensely. We also managed to keep to the $50 a day budget! But like always, we look forward to new beginnings, touring wise. What a great trip it has been and our lives have been enriched and deepen through spinning together on small wheels across the beautiful south-west coast of Western Australia. It's a birthday ride I will never forget. Anyone for the Great Ocean Road, Victoria next year?

Spinning past 50 on small wheels - Day 2, Denmark

Absolutely nothing to do with cycling but I love the openness of the shops 

here to make everyone feel at home.

It was a glorious sunny morning that greeted us. I woke up to the singing of the birthday song by my mates and it can't get any better than that! We piled all our stuff back into the SUV and the plan was to leave the car at K & J's home, and collect it at the end of the ride in Walpole. It was quite a challenge to find a good place to refuel our bodies that early in the morning until we spotted Cosi Cafe in the town centre. We ordered the biggest breakfasts and shared it. The food was delicious and beautifully presented, and so was the friendly service. I love Albany too!

Sharing 3 huge meals between the four of us made a lot of sense and helped us keep our budget to A$50 a day inclusive of accommodation, food and drinks. Even after sharing, my breakfast plate was delightfully crowded!

After such a filling meal, it was hard to start our ride from K & J's home, just at the outskirts of Albany. But not before admiring the thick and fat family lizard doing its rounds on the roof - feasting.

Setting off, we left with great excitement and anticipation. It was to be an easy 55km ride through the beautiful country road that hugs the coastline. We were very pleased that a nice safe shoulder was available for us most times and much appreciated signs to make drivers aware of bicycles and hikers.

Traffic was very light and we enjoyed cruising at an easy 22km/h to soak in the open spaces before us. I was happy with my Tikit and touring on high pressure Kojaks meant gliding along effortlessly.... until we encountered some road works.

Riding on the dirt with 16" wheels was very jarring to say the least. That is why serious tourers prefer at least 1.75 wide tires as you never know what surprises the road can throw up.

Rod had a permanent smile plastered on his face as he went along merrily on his brand new Giant Cross City. It had 120psi tires and it really ate up the miles. 700c tires really roll well and are fast so its no wonder they are the choice for speedsters, except they get pretty lonely hanging at the back of the SUV!

Our first real break was at Youngs Siding, some 15km from Denmark. This place brought special memories for Uncle Ken as 50 years ago as a young technician, he installed some phone systems here. With a population of not more than 50 folks, a General Store and only 13 houses, this is rural as rural can be. We enjoyed a lovely drink of Harvey Fresh orange juice and had an extended time of rest in the lovely gardens of the General Store. In a hurry, we were not and that is what is lovely about touring. Taking our time, and just relaxing.

It was just as well that we rested. Approaching Denmark, the hills began and it really worked us very hard. On top of that, poor Ken got stung by a bee. When he said he was allergic to bee stings, I started to panic. He could have just fainted there and then. Fortunately, the bee that stung him had a "friendly" poison. Still, cycling with a swollen knee is not fun.

We arrived at Denmark about 2pm, famished and stopped at the first restaurant, Ravens. That proved to be a good choice. Our rice and various curry lunch was satisfying and a quick pop to IGA for ice cream lifted our spirits again.

Our abode was the Blue Wren YHA and we were very pleased with our room for the night. Though it was 4 of us together, it was snug in a good sort of way. As with most YHAs in Australia, there are common toilets, kitchen and spacious living areas. 

It was nice to see the Bike Friendly sticker and Graham the manager is himself a cyclist and hits the Munda Biddi Trail regularly. He shared that in 2014, the trail all the way from Perth to Denmark will be ready, all 1000km of off road cycling!

Today being my 50th, I was so blessed to have Peter and his wife Sue, hosts us for dinner at their lovely holiday home in the woods near the Wilson Inlet. They came down all the way from Perth! O yes, they have an absolutely lovely dog, Harvey, with eyes that can melt your heart. 

Peter came to pick us up in a very old Holden wagon as he unfortunately locked his keys in his car! A kind mechanic lend him his wagon. Such kindness. It was great to be driven around as we all had had enough of cycling for the day and he brought us to the beautiful Wilson inlet. It took my breath away.

It was magically to have drinks on the balcony of his wooden chalet nest in the forest and hear the wildlife, with views of the coast peeking out from the trees. Just beside where we were on a tree, was a Tawny Frogmouth, who recently had 2 chicks. Can you spot them?

Pic by Peter Kermode

Ken was enamoured to see a boat built by Peter's late father, and even until today, still talks about its impressive workmanship. A testament to the work of a skilled surgeon.

Sue out did herself and put together a meal fit for a King. We had roast sweet and regular potatoes, peas, steamed cauliflower and brocolli and roast Denmark lamb washed down with local wines. Lovely food, excellent company and a mischievous dog really made for an evening to remember. I cannot thank Peter and Sue enough for their kindness in making this day so memorable for me.

Turning 50 in Denmark with old and new friends, doing what I love best, in such absolutely marvellous surroundings in nice cool weather, and eating and drinking so well, a man cannot ask for more. As I face a new decade of my life, my heart is filled with a deep sense of gratitude for God's generousity and goodness to me.

Thank you my dear friends for a most special day indeed!

You have filled my heart with great joy.
It is greater than the joy of people
who have lots of grain and fresh wine.
Psalm 4:7

Spinning past 50 on small wheels... Day 1, Albany

The ancient Chinese sage Confucius has a saying that a man will know his destiny when he turns 50. I count myself fortunate that I knew my life destiny as early as 18 when I connected with my Creator, but only discovered the destiny and joy of small wheels some 7 years ago. It was thus fitting that I celebrated my half century exploring the lovely south coast of Western Australia on my Bike Friday Tikit with my 3 good mates - Rod, Ken and Kenneth.

We had made plans as early as 5 months ago, making space in our ever crowded calendars. The time chosen was just after the school holidays so that we avoided the crowds and it so happened that my special day fell on that week. It was a bonus that Rod, who used to work with Australian Post, could get holiday chalets in Albany. That left me to book our accommodations in Denmark and Walpole, easily done through the excellent YHAs.

Ken generously agreed to drive us all down to Albany in his spacious Terracan SUV, and we piled 3 foldies plus luggage in the back. Unfortunately, Rod's brand new Giant hybrid had to hang all alone on the rack behind.

The 400km drive was a breeze as we set off in the highest spirits, laughing and joking in the car. I have not been through this road for over 10 years and this is indeed a very beautiful part of the world with green hills, sheep grazing, Karri forests and just acres of open spaces until the beautiful coast was reached. We also made coffee stops where we got to sample Rod's lovely home made muffins.

Upon reaching Albany, we settled quickly into the cosy 2 bedroom unit at Middleton Beach. What struck me was how much cooler it was compared to Perth. I made a Korean dinner and we enjoyed that with a lovely Merlot given to me by fellow cyclist and friend, Wanida. We all went to bed early, feeling very excited about our ride in the next few days.

We spent our first morning exploring beautiful Albany and rode to the Windmill Farms. I was impressed by the infrastructure invested for bicycles here. It was a tough ride as there were hills aplenty but the reward was a breathtaking view of impressive of huge propellors harnessing the wind for electricity, set in such delightful coastal surroundings.

The eco benefits are amazing - producing 70% of Albany's electricity needs! Continuing on our ride, I spotted a house with a small display cabinet at the gate offering home made honey. It was perhaps the last bastion of the honour system where one buys the product and puts the $ into the red box.

Our next stop was to the Old Whaling Station at the end of Frenchman's Bay. This was a gentile incline that is not immediately felt but provided for good training. It was a big relief that the last 1.5km to the station was all downhill and some of us hit over 60km/h. We took the opportunity to eat our picnic lunch here in the pergola just by the emerald blue waters and it was so special.

It was a blast on the return ride as it was largely downhill and we stopped for ice cream at the General Store. Ken's cousin K & J were expecting us for tea and we made our way to their huge lovely countryside home which they have lived in for over 40 years. K is 81yo but has so much vitality and energy that betrayed his age. He proudly showed us a present from his son, a Landcruiser Sahara which was most appropriate to tow his extremely impressive caravan.

Stepping into it was like going into a 5 star hotel suite. It had everything in it including airconditioning, solar shower and a washing machine! I can understand why people will spend $70k on such a toy.

They fed us well with great pies and sausage rolls which we wolfed down hungrily, and finished off with piping hot tea. I loved hearing K & J tell stories about their stay in the Northern Territories where they camped with Aboriginal friends, eating lizard and kangaroos. Fascinating!

Alas, we had to leave as it was getting dark and we rode 8km back to our chalet. A quick shower and we scooted next door to the Discovery Inn for dinner. It was run by a couple from the UK and the menu was interestingly dependent on the mood of the Chef. A$20 for a 3 course meal was really stunning value! Fortunately, we got Shepherd's Pie that night and I enjoyed that, while Kenneth devoured his steak.

Somehow, we were all so tired. Just pottering around Albany, we managed nearly 60km and that surprised us. Thus, sleep came early and by 9pm, it was lights out in every sense of the word!