Folding Trains and Flying Taxis.

Assembling train - 2 mins flat...

Off we go!

The railways of Cambodia is notorious for its unreliability. So what do you do with a proper rail line that is largely unused? (The PP to Battambang train runs once every week only.) The locals got it ingeniously figured out with their own train made out of bamboo. The Bamboo train is the only "folding" train I know. Made of two simple axles, a bamboo structure measuring 4 x 2m and powered by a small generator motor on fan belt. The 8 of us rode on this contraption and were very impressed. Simple, economical and most importantly, very effective. It carried goods, people and the odd cow to the next small town.

But what happens when another bamboo train comes into your path? One minute is all it takes to lift the structure and remove the axles. Simply amazing and this happened to us about 3 times. No fuss or fighting, lots of goodwill and understanding, and everyone seemed happy enough though I could not figure who had to get off the track. The fresh country air does bring the best of people.

Our ride to Phnom Penh were 2 sinister looking dark green 12 year old Toyota Camrys with equally sinister looking drivers. They drove at breakneck speeds with their horns in full use as they weave skillfully through traffic. The 290km was covered in 3.5 hrs - truly a grand finale of our Amazing Race!

A slice of France in Battambang

French Governor's Residence

Battambang means the "Disappearing Sword" and for me, its the welcome disappearing hordes of tourists as compared to chaotic Siem Reap that I truly appreciate. Nothing like being on a bicycle with the fresh early morning breeze in your face, experiencing the awakening of the town. Min and I parked ourselves in the middle of the bridge, watching the local crowd pass by on all sorts of vehicles. We were particularly thrilled when a bunch of hand-driven wheel chairs with disabled children made their way independently to school. Someone had made a difference to their lives and may God bless them !

This charming riverside town is perhaps the most Cambodian town I have visited perhaps due to the relative inaccessability to get there. No airport, poor road from Siem Reap & boat ride from hell. Though from Phnom Penh, its a pretty decent 290km of highway. What stands out are 2 huge statues on each end of town - one a golden man with several hands including a CD and another, a black colored fierce warrior with a sword.

The main attraction of Battambang is the French period architecture sprawning in many parts of town. During the long civil war, Battambang being so far away from the action, was spared from bombing and thus, many of its old French designed buildings remain pretty intact. We cycled along the river and stopped many times for photos to take advantage of the brilliant morning light. The original French Governor's Mansion still stands so elegantly facing the river, almost ready to host the next dignitary dinner. Its black cannons waiting to fire a salute.

Many many other French villas still stand and one particularly has been lovingly restored and turned into a boutique hotel, La Villa. Celia stayed there for a night and was charmed. Wide boulevards with huge trees neatly lined added to the very European atmosphere of this old IndoChinese town. Perhaps the most common contribution of French designed architecture is found in the numerous old shop houses with fascinating French windows and iron wrought grill balconies. We also visited 2 Wats and interestingly, some of the bungalows within the temple compound was obviously built and occupied by the colonial masters. It was odd to see orange-robed monks coming out of such quarters and some had their roofs changed to look more "buddhist".

Unlike the other French towns of Indochina like Vientiane, Saigon and Phnom Penh, Battambang must be the best remaining example of the influence France had in this region. A slice of old France lives here, and I hope it stays that way for a long, long time.

More pain, less pleasure...

A crooked horizon due to listing of overcrowded boat

After all the steep climbing at Angkor Temples, a late morning is what we needed but alas, the Amazing Race boat trip required us to suffer another 0600 start. True to the "flexi-bei-tei" nature of this lovely country, our pick up came late. What's more, it already had 8 burly Caucasions in the old diesel van but somehow with some Cambodian magic, the 4 of us, 2 bags plus 2 folding bikes managed to fit in.

Expecting a lovely & spacious boat (it is a long 5 hr ride), we were shocked to be sardined into an old boat build for 35 pax. Dora counted close to 60 pax and we ended on the roof of our QE2 liner, Cambodian version. I had to personally mop the roof so that we could sit/sleep decently. It was quite comfortable to be on the breezy roof soaking in the magnificent scenery. Wildlife is obvious very rich in the Tonle Sap Lake with all kinds of birds seen, some flying in A-formation. We passed by several floating villages where even schools were on boats. The kids were always ready to give their cheery smiles and friendly waves. But soon the sun started to come up, and we were like frogs in slow boiling water.

The only toilet stop came 4 hrs later where we docked and were herded onto a floating coffee shop. Toilet was a hole in the shed, leading straight into the lake. Fortunately, we were told to squeeze with fellow passengers below in the deck and that provided some respite from the searing heat. Sitting at the back next to the diesel engine, I was not sure if my lot had improved. What's more, the boat had to squeeze through some very narrow passages of mangrove bush, and the "whipping"effect began as branches brushed rudely into the cabin. We took it all in stride and 7 hours later, arrived at the rickety Battambang Ferry Terminal.

It was such a relief to be picked up by Celia in a huge Toyota Landcruiser, with cold aircon. The Banan Hotel chosen was pretty decent. Celia and I managed to squeeze in a bike ride with the Brompton and Carry Me and we had a photo competition where our 9 yo Godson, Daryl was the judge. Less dusty, more character and certainly more French colonial than Siem Reap. I met a chubby Aussie guy who runs the Bus Stop Guesthouse and he pointed us to the best restaurant in town, PP. It turned out very satisfying indeed with delicious Khmer food served, finished off with lovely ice cream.

We ride the Bamboo Train tomorrow, this time a little later for the rest of the group. But for me and Min, a Physio student at Melbourne Uni, it would be a 0630 start to do what I love most, bike riding and photography of an unfamiliar town waiting to be explored.

Hopefully, there will be more pleasure than pain.

Pleasure & Pain

The few Cambodian words I know is "How are you?" or "Sok si bei tei?". But one of the most impt keyword to keep in your heart is "flexibei-tei" as things are fluid and often unpredictable. We arrived at PP airport only to be told that our hotel had car problems and was told to wait. They sent Mr Vannak, the Front Office Manager, to pick us in a taxi. 45 mins late, but no issue, we were not in hurry. Problem was we were 4 people and 7 pieces of luggage. Vannak came together with his driver in a 15yo Toyota Camry. Somehow he managed to fit everything into the small sedan with me sharing the front seat with him. What a wonderful experience for Dora, a first timer and her son Daryl, as they marvelled at the lawless traffic. He also showed us a video footage of the recent Dragon Boat tragedy where 5 Singaporeans drowned on his phone. The DVD is on sale! Sick.

The warm welcome we got at Asia Hotel more than made up. The staff recognized us, esp my son Jeremy (the biggest 12 yo they have ever seen) as we have come faithfully each year. The boxes we took for our Cambodian friends were gratefully received and they were so kind to book us our onward bus tickets and mobile phone cards.

The journey to Siem Reap turned out to be a real local Cambodian experience - and we were glad the long 6 hrs ended positively with Celia my wife picking us up at the bus station with the Auberge Mont Royal MPV. But they had somehow got the hotel rates wrong and overcharged us $5 per night. I was feeling pretty tired and put on a brave front. Sofia, the ever obliging front office manager upgraded us to the luxurious and spacious deluxe suite and we were grateful. See how important Flexibei-tei is?

This morning's early visit to the Angkor Temples was a photographer's dream with beautiful lighting and the magnificient Temples. 3rd time for me, but never tired. Problem was I got attacked by fiery red ants while on the ground for a low shot. The pics turned out great, but so did my stings! Riding around the temple grounds amongst elephants must surely be one of the highlights and as usual, the Carry Me attracted too many questions I could handle from admirers. One of them said, "Your life now very easy...". I smiled as I looked at the 3 red swellings on my left hand.

Tomorrow we leave for Battambang at 0600 for a 5 hour boat ride. Celia just smsed me to say very interesting floating villages but there is only one toilet stop. Help!

Pleasure and pain indeed.

Packed to go!

There are foldies and there are foldies. I have forgotten how compact the Brompton is - it fits straight into this 31" suitcase just like that. I keep it in a DIMPA (available from Ikea at under $10) to ensure it is dust-free when in hibernation. This Morris Minor of a bicycle, cream colour and all is 5 years old but still looks as good as new.

Note how much more space there is left in my suitcase (where the helmet is). My clothes for 2 weeks will fit easily inside with room to spare. This will be Brompy's 2nd trip to Cambodia and I'm sure she is excited. Last year same time, she took part in the 1st Angkor Wat Bike race, and came in 9th among big wheeled bikes.

http://foldsoc.blogspot.com/2006/12/village-focus-bike-race.html

I will be taking along a Carry Me as well for the wifey or son.

"All my bags are packed, and I'm ready to go..."

Going to Cambodia, again!

Every Dec since 2003, I have been going to Cambodia to the COSI Orphanage, near Phnom Penh. Our team bring lessons on music, science, language, art and English, as well as gifts that the 120 children there need. But most of all, we bring the gift of friendships to disadvantaged children. They don't have much, but are immensely happy - much more than us! Our technology addicted teens also come back realising that they it is indeed possible to live without the computer & handphone. Fresh from "cold turkey", they re-learn the art of making meaningful face-to-face conversations and playing games that do not require batteries. That can only be a good thing.

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Needless to say, I always bring along a foldie. Having your own wheels offers a sense of freedom, especially in the exploration of Phnom Penh city and running errands. Its chaotic traffic is surprisingly easy to ride once you get used to it and drivers are generally quite tolerant and courteous. I have made a new friend, Stephen Yeo, who is the Principal of the Cambodian Methodist School and he comes from East Malaysia, Sibu. We were brought together by our love for cycling and I look forward to spending time with him on the saddle.

This time we are also visiting Battambang, the 2nd largest city situated up north where I will be looking at future humanitarian opportunities together with my wife's Physiotherapy team. I look forward to capturing some nice photos of the old French colonial mansions there with my new Canon IS650 camera.

Can't wait! But alas, my perennial problem - which folder should I bring? The Brompton is a good choice as it packs very well (no disassembly required) but so does my Tikit, Dahon Speed 8 and the Carry Me. But since my Tikit got to go the last time, it will have to stay at home and give its other siblings a chance...

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http://www.bikefriday.com/alvinlee/tikitincambodia07

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Bicycle parenting can be difficult! Sigh.

Sharing life together ...

This was the theme for my church camp and what an appropriate one indeed. Life lived in and within a community, is so much more meaningful and purposeful. The extended time I had with my family and friends was also very special. What a joy to see so many familiar smiles and join in the laughter of 90 folks from all walks of life, united by God's overflowing love for us. This is perhaps a glimpse of what heaven will be like.
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No wonder Hebrews 10:24,25 encourages us to "Consider how we may spur one another on toward love and good deeds. Let us not give up meeting together..." Our Creator has made us relational beings and we came together to celebrate that.
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Of course, I used whatever free time to ride my Carry Me to discover Malacca - "The Living Museum". History, culture, heritage and nonya food, its all there. The CM made exploring the town really easy. But it attracted too many admirers for my liking !

I wrote this article for the Folding Society UK last year on Malacca. Do have a click if you like to read about this little adventure on a Dahon Helios and Brompton.

http://www.foldsoc.co.uk/Mike/malacca.html